I know we have bits and pieces of this process amongst a couple threads on this forum, but this will put all the important info in one post with some very helpful tips. I do not take credit for everything as some of this info came from other members. If this existed I could have been prepared and done this in one go, instead I ended up running around trying to find special tools. So here it is...
Ducati OEM Oil Filter (Part Number: 444.4.003.7A)
Copper Gasket 18x12.2x1.5 (Part Number: 85250421A)
Aluminum Gasket 28mmx22.5mmx1.0 (Part Number: 22032083A)
Gasket 32x38x1.5 (Part Number: 85250051A)
3.35L (0.88 gallons) 15W50 Oil (See page 306 of Owner's manual for requirements)
5mm Hex Socket
12mm Hex Socket
14mm Hex Socket
17mm Hex Socket (IMPORTANT: MUST HAVE A MINIMUM INSERTABLE LENGTH OF APPROX. 1.75"/44mm)
Oil Filter Wrench
Plastic Pry Tool
Lots of shop towel or rag
Nitrile Gloves (Optional)
Oil Drain Plug with Magnet: 20Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm)
Oil Drain Plug for Mesh Filter: 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm)
Mesh Filter Bung: 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm)
Plastic Mesh Filter: 10Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm)
Oil Filter 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max 12 Nm)
Step 1: Partially wrap exhaust with tinfoil where the main drain bung is if you'd like to prevent oil from getting on it. When you remove the main plug it will run down your exhaust. If you aren't worried about it, move on to the next step.
Step 2: Place drain pan under bike. Remove filler cap so the oil will flow nicely. Remove the oil drain plug for the mesh filter. This requires a 12mm hex socket. Remove the washer for the plug you've just removed. Mine was seriously stuck to the bottom of the engine and could not be removed by hand. I used a plastic pry tool to remove it as can be seen in the picture.
Step 3: Move your drain pan over and remove the main drain plug. This is the smaller one with the copper washer, it requires a 5mm hex socket. Let it completely drain. Clean the metal shavings off the magnetic plug. (Tip: You may have to put your bike on it's rear stand to fit the drain pan underneath. I did for mine)
Step 4: Remove the oil filter. There is a special tool out there for Ducati filters which would come in handy but is not necessary. I actually used a pipe wrench on mine which is not a common method but it was way overtightened. It took some force to get off and was squeaky as if the gasket was never lubed during it's install. More oil will drain out so make sure to have your pan underneath.
Step 5: Remove the bung for the mesh oil filter. This requires a 14mm hex socket. It may take a little force to crack open. Make sure you get the washer off as well. With this removed you can now remove the plastic mesh filter. It requires a 17mm hex socket with an insertable tip of approximately 1.75". Longer will obviously work but any shorter than this and you might not reach it.
Step 6: Clean the mesh filter. I've read of people using gasoline but I personally ran it under hot tap water and used my finger to get some of the stuck metal filings off. I then shook what water out that I could, dried it with a paper towel, and hit it with a hair dryer on low setting for a few minutes until I was sure it was completely dry. There was surprisingly a good amount of shavings and little pieces of metal. I think this is a very beneficial part of the oil change and will personally be checking and cleaning this each time I drain the oil.
Step 7: Reinstall mesh filter. Be careful, it's only plastic threads. I used a torque wrench and set it to 10Nm as per the recommended torque spec. Use common sense here, it's not much more than hand tight.
Step 8: Reinstall bung for mesh filter with new washer (85250051A) using a 14mm hex socket. Torque to 42Nm.
Step 8: Reinstall drain plug for mesh filter with new washer (22032083A) using a 12mm hex socket. Torque to 42Nm.
Step 9: Reinstall drain plug with copper washer (85250421A) using a 5mm hex socket. Torque to 20Nm.
Step 10: Lubricate gasket of new oil filter with your new clean oil. Thread on by hand so its snug plus a little extra. If you have the proper tool set it to 11Nm. It is definitely possible to over exceed this value if you're trying to twist it on as tight as possible by hand. Some people like to pre-fill the new filter with their clean oil before threading it on. I think this is a good idea but I don't think it's a necessary step.
Step 11: Pour your new oil in the bike. My personal preference is Motul 300V 15W50. Make sure to reinstall the fill cap before starting the engine or oil will splash everywhere.
Step 12: Start your engine up and let it idle for 20 seconds or so. Shut it off, place something under the kickstand so it's level, and let the oil settle. Depending if you prefilled the filter, you will see the level in the sightglass has dropped quite a bit. Fill it up so the level sits somewhere between the two markings on the side of the sightglass. Mine used just over 3L. Make sure to check it some point in the near future after a short ride. The level should be checked cold.
Last edited by Audi403; 08-15-2018 at 01:42 AM.