DIY: Oil Change including Mesh Filter - Ducati Supersport 939 Forum
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post #1 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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I know we have bits and pieces of this process amongst a couple threads on this forum, but this will put all the important info in one post with some very helpful tips. I do not take credit for everything as some of this info came from other members. If this existed I could have been prepared and done this in one go, instead I ended up running around trying to find special tools. So here it is...

Parts Required:
Ducati OEM Oil Filter (Part Number: 444.4.003.7A)
Copper Gasket 18x12.2x1.5 (Part Number: 85250421A)
Aluminum Gasket 28mmx22.5mmx1.0 (Part Number: 22032083A)
Gasket 32x38x1.5 (Part Number: 85250051A)
3.35L (0.88 gallons) 15W50 Oil (See page 306 of Owner's manual for requirements)

Tools Required:
5mm Hex Socket
12mm Hex Socket
14mm Hex Socket
17mm Hex Socket (IMPORTANT: MUST HAVE A MINIMUM INSERTABLE LENGTH OF APPROX. 1.75"/44mm)
Oil Filter Wrench
Plastic Pry Tool
Oil Pan
Lots of shop towel or rag
Nitrile Gloves (Optional)
Funnel (Optional)

Torque Specifications
Oil Drain Plug with Magnet: 20Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm)
Oil Drain Plug for Mesh Filter: 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm)
Mesh Filter Bung: 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm)
Plastic Mesh Filter: 10Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm)
Oil Filter 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max 12 Nm)

Procedure:

Step 1: Partially wrap exhaust with tinfoil where the main drain bung is if you'd like to prevent oil from getting on it. When you remove the main plug it will run down your exhaust. If you aren't worried about it, move on to the next step.

Step 2: Place drain pan under bike. Remove filler cap so the oil will flow nicely. Remove the oil drain plug for the mesh filter. This requires a 12mm hex socket. Remove the washer for the plug you've just removed. Mine was seriously stuck to the bottom of the engine and could not be removed by hand. I used a plastic pry tool to remove it as can be seen in the picture.

Step 3: Move your drain pan over and remove the main drain plug. This is the smaller one with the copper washer, it requires a 5mm hex socket. Let it completely drain. Clean the metal shavings off the magnetic plug. (Tip: You may have to put your bike on it's rear stand to fit the drain pan underneath. I did for mine)

Step 4: Remove the oil filter. There is a special tool out there for Ducati filters which would come in handy but is not necessary. I actually used a pipe wrench on mine which is not a common method but it was way overtightened. It took some force to get off and was squeaky as if the gasket was never lubed during it's install. More oil will drain out so make sure to have your pan underneath.

Step 5: Remove the bung for the mesh oil filter. This requires a 14mm hex socket. It may take a little force to crack open. Make sure you get the washer off as well. With this removed you can now remove the plastic mesh filter. It requires a 17mm hex socket with an insertable tip of approximately 1.75". Longer will obviously work but any shorter than this and you might not reach it.

Step 6: Clean the mesh filter. I've read of people using gasoline but I personally ran it under hot tap water and used my finger to get some of the stuck metal filings off. I then shook what water out that I could, dried it with a paper towel, and hit it with a hair dryer on low setting for a few minutes until I was sure it was completely dry. There was surprisingly a good amount of shavings and little pieces of metal. I think this is a very beneficial part of the oil change and will personally be checking and cleaning this each time I drain the oil.

Step 7: Reinstall mesh filter. Be careful, it's only plastic threads. I used a torque wrench and set it to 10Nm as per the recommended torque spec. Use common sense here, it's not much more than hand tight.

Step 8: Reinstall bung for mesh filter with new washer (85250051A) using a 14mm hex socket. Torque to 42Nm.

Step 8: Reinstall drain plug for mesh filter with new washer (22032083A) using a 12mm hex socket. Torque to 42Nm.

Step 9: Reinstall drain plug with copper washer (85250421A) using a 5mm hex socket. Torque to 20Nm.

Step 10: Lubricate gasket of new oil filter with your new clean oil. Thread on by hand so its snug plus a little extra. If you have the proper tool set it to 11Nm. It is definitely possible to over exceed this value if you're trying to twist it on as tight as possible by hand. Some people like to pre-fill the new filter with their clean oil before threading it on. I think this is a good idea but I don't think it's a necessary step.

Step 11: Pour your new oil in the bike. My personal preference is Motul 300V 15W50. Make sure to reinstall the fill cap before starting the engine or oil will splash everywhere.

Step 12: Start your engine up and let it idle for 20 seconds or so. Shut it off, place something under the kickstand so it's level, and let the oil settle. Depending if you prefilled the filter, you will see the level in the sightglass has dropped quite a bit. Fill it up so the level sits somewhere between the two markings on the side of the sightglass. Mine used just over 3L. Make sure to check it some point in the near future after a short ride. The level should be checked cold.
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Last edited by Audi403; 08-15-2018 at 01:42 AM.
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post #2 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't take as many pictures as I could have because I was tired of taking on and off nitrile gloves. These should be more than enough for anyone to figure this out.


Last edited by Audi403; 08-15-2018 at 01:06 AM.
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post #3 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 02:01 AM
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Thanks for the DIY. Make sure you only hand titghten the mesh filter itself (last photo). Its plastic and its not going anywhere.

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post #4 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 04:12 AM
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@se7en & @Edk
Make a sticky please.
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post #5 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 04:44 AM
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Superb work, Amos.

So, lemme get this straight.

I twist this little tube, it gets loud, I go forward really fast and it makes me smile...is that how it all works?
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post #6 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by amoslws View Post
@se7en & @Edk
Make a sticky please.
Done. LOL, I made it a sticky before I even saw your post.

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post #7 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 06:03 AM
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I have a billet oil Filler cap (not plastic) is the oil filler cap 10nm or ?

I Can't Wait To Get a DUCATI....! 🇮🇹🏁

I Now Own That DUCATI....! 🇮🇹🏁
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post #8 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 06:18 AM
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I have the Ducati oil filter wrench that I bought a few years ago - it's like a giant socket that fits over the bottom of the filter. I find it is fine for tightening the filter but tends to slip off the filter when trying to undo them if they are really tight. I have a number of other filter wrenches but if all else fails end up using a pipe wrench.
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post #9 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtf View Post
Thanks for the DIY. Make sure you only hand titghten the mesh filter itself (last photo). Its plastic and its not going anywhere.
10Nm worked fine, but like I mentioned in the procedure some people prefer to only hand tighten the filter. Use common sense on this one. If you have a good torque wrench that you trust 10Nm worked for me. If your torque wrench is cheap or possibly out of calibration maybe just go a smidge past hand tight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gcati937sss View Post
I have a billet oil Filler cap (not plastic) is the oil filler cap 10nm or ?
This isn't a torque spec you will find listed as the oem part is obviously just plastic and put on hand tight. I've never heard of torquing fill caps. If you need to add oil on the road and you have it torqued on you might find yourself in a bad situation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek View Post
I have the Ducati oil filter wrench that I bought a few years ago - it's like a giant socket that fits over the bottom of the filter. I find it is fine for tightening the filter but tends to slip off the filter when trying to undo them if they are really tight. I have a number of other filter wrenches but if all else fails end up using a pipe wrench.
This is the one I ordered:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KNN7NSQ/...394800_TE_dp_1

76mm w/8 flutes. Haven't received it yet but it will be good for torquing the filter to the right value. I'll update next time I do oil with how it works for removal. If it slips the pipe wrench will come out again LOL

Last edited by Audi403; 08-15-2018 at 08:33 AM.
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post #10 of 71 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 11:11 AM
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A tip for those of us in the USA who cannot find a 17mm hex readily without waiting for the Amazon. Get a bolt with a head size of 17mm, and 2 nuts with a head size of 17mm and make your own.

Also, I found compressed air (and safety glasses) work nicely to clean the mesh.

At least we do not need to remove the exhaust like you do on a Scrambler!
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