How to remove and refit fuel tank. - Page 4 - Ducati Supersport 939 Forum
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:31 PM
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A spark plug change is not scheduled until the 18 k Desmo service. I will look at the plugs with 18 k mi on them when I get mine back from the dealer today.
You’ve probably already did this, but you’ll need to request the Tech keep them.

Would please post pics for Forum Members to view 18K miles on the plugs...

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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 11:43 AM
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I suppose first the fairing must be removed, right?
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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 04:59 AM
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I suppose first the fairing must be removed, right?
Afraid so

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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 03:06 PM
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Fuel Lines

Getting ready for a 2 week ride in September with Brenda and our 2 SSS. This is the first bike Iíve had with a clutch cable in 20 years, so my past practice of zip-tying a new clutch cable along side the existing one seemed like a good idea (and still does).

Without first reading this thread or any others in the forum about removing the fuel tank (yes, foolish move on my part), I proceeded to tilt it up by removing the bolt next to the key (the same as used to do on the ST bikes) but to my surprise, the fuel lines are in place. I decided to just put the tank back and read the instructions (a crazy idea I know).

When I lowered the tank, there is too much slack in the fuel lines and I fear they will pinch or crimp. The bike seems to run ok, but the lines are not as they should be due to the extra slack when the tank is lowered back into its original position.

So, learned SS co-owners and sage members of this forum, how do I put the fuel lines back in place and lower the tank to avoid any issues with the lines?

Mark Craige
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'12 Multistrada 1200S Touring, full Termi., (sold)
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 03:44 PM
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Clutch cables have improved dramatically in the past 20 years. Haven't heard of one failing in about that time. My Triumph ST1050 has 64,000 mls on it's original clutch cable. Actually had more trouble from my VFR's hydraulic clutch.
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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 05:28 PM
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Mark, pack your rain gear along with the clutch cable, wheel sockets, spark plugs and leads, field rations, etc.

This will ensure that you won't rained on, get a flat, lose a cylinder, nor starve on your trip.

Have fun.
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macraige View Post
Getting ready for a 2 week ride in September with Brenda and our 2 SSS. This is the first bike Iíve had with a clutch cable in 20 years, so my past practice of zip-tying a new clutch cable along side the existing one seemed like a good idea (and still does).

Without first reading this thread or any others in the forum about removing the fuel tank (yes, foolish move on my part), I proceeded to tilt it up by removing the bolt next to the key (the same as used to do on the ST bikes) but to my surprise, the fuel lines are in place. I decided to just put the tank back and read the instructions (a crazy idea I know).

When I lowered the tank, there is too much slack in the fuel lines and I fear they will pinch or crimp. The bike seems to run ok, but the lines are not as they should be due to the extra slack when the tank is lowered back into its original position.

So, learned SS co-owners and sage members of this forum, how do I put the fuel lines back in place and lower the tank to avoid any issues with the lines?
I'm a little confused by your post. Are you referring to the overflow and carbon canister lines or the single pipe that connects to the throttle body injectors.
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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 06:23 AM
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I'm pretty sure that he is referring to the breather and overflow pipes that are clipped in at the front of the tank. When you lift the tank they get pulled up and don't want to slip back down again when you lower the tank because of their routing through the wires and cables behind the steering head. When I was refitting the tank I located their positions farther down near the horizontal cylinder and gently pulled them down as I lowered the tank so that they didn't bunch up and kink.
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek View Post
I'm pretty sure that he is referring to the breather and overflow pipes that are clipped in at the front of the tank. When you lift the tank they get pulled up and don't want to slip back down again when you lower the tank because of their routing through the wires and cables behind the steering head. When I was refitting the tank I located their positions farther down near the horizontal cylinder and gently pulled them down as I lowered the tank so that they didn't bunch up and kink.
Makes me wonder if my breather hose might be kinked. I get a little gas through the cap when I fill it full. AMS changed out the tank on the bike before I picked it up (in about 20 minutes).

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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek View Post
I'm pretty sure that he is referring to the breather and overflow pipes that are clipped in at the front of the tank. When you lift the tank they get pulled up and don't want to slip back down again when you lower the tank because of their routing through the wires and cables behind the steering head. When I was refitting the tank I located their positions farther down near the horizontal cylinder and gently pulled them down as I lowered the tank so that they didn't bunch up and kink.
Derek: You are exactly right. Your advise is what I was seeking and provides a simple solution.

Thank you.
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Mark Craige
Tulsa OK
'17 SuperSport S, Akra Slip-ons, touring w/s, hard bags, etc.
'12 Multistrada 1200S Touring, full Termi., (sold)
'10 848 Hayden SE, full Termi. (sold)
Ď04 ST4s, full Termi., PCIII (sold)
'04 BMW R1100SA BCR, Staintune, Ohlins
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