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What battery tender do y'all out there suggest? What voltage am I looking for?
 

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I purchased a cheapie from Harbor Freight with an SAE connector. I zip tie the connector on to the bike, so it's an easy plug in. Actually it was on the bike when I got it but I blew the fuse and had to take the left side fairing off install a larger fuse (7.5 amp perhaps?).
 

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I use a CTEK and have been very happy with it.
 

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I use a Noco Genius
 

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I usually use one of my two Battery Tender units. This is the latest one I bought:

 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, I'm a battery dummy. Anything that involves an electrical current and my brain shuts off. What is the difference in the amps? There are dozens of charger/tenders ranging from $24 to $124 on amazon but they all have different amperages and from great to poor ratings.
42043
I'm confused. Here is the one I had years ago, I'm sure and it worked fine.
 

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OK, I'm a battery dummy. Anything that involves an electrical current and my brain shuts off. What is the difference in the amps? There are dozens of charger/tenders ranging from $24 to $124 on amazon but they all have different amperages and from great to poor ratings. View attachment 42043 I'm confused. Here is the one I had years ago, I'm sure and it worked fine.
Think of amps as a shove or push, so you might have a small engine like your bike that doesn't need a big push to turn over .So a 12 volt battery with a small amperage will do the job and next to that you have a pick up truck with a V8 engine, still a 12 volt battery but many more amps are needed to turn over that engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Think of amps as a shove or push, so you might have a small engine like your bike that doesn't need a big push to turn over .So a 12 volt battery with a small amperage will do the job and next to that you have a pick up truck with a V8 engine, still a 12 volt battery but many more amps are needed to turn over that engine.
OK Mr Ex, I get it. Thanks. So any 12 volt tender should do, like the last one I owned.
Cheers
 

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Sorry but that´s not entirely true. Besides from the voltage you should make sure not to blow your circuits by using to high amperage. As for the SS according to the manual you should not exceed 1.5A.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry but that´s not entirely true. Besides from the voltage you should make sure not to blow your circuits by using to high amperage. As for the SS according to the manual you should not exceed 1.5A.
Thanks
There's a Noco Genius that meets those specs and has been recommended by others here.
Thanks to all, always learn something on this site.
 

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The battery tender brand doesn't have the advanced features that Noco and CTEK use. I had a link to someone who did some advanced testing for his work, but can't find it. CTEK was the one they purchased in the end, but Noco also was up there. Battery Tender did not have the same protection circuitry, nor desulfation, or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The battery tender brand doesn't have the advanced features that Noco and CTEK use. I had a link to someone who did some advanced testing for his work, but can't find it. CTEK was the one they purchased in the end, but Noco also was up there. Battery Tender did not have the same protection circuitry, nor desulfation, or something like that.
I ordered the Noco from Amazon so I think I'll be fine. Cheers
 

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I have a simple Deltran Battery Tender Jr and one that someone got from AutoZone that can also be used in cars.

I've also used Deltran's lithium LifePO4 batteries, and they worked super well. Plus, they only weighed 2 lbs and they're around $140.

I don't think lithium batteries are supposed to use a desulfation chargers. Deltran says it'll mess up their lithium batteries.
 

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Any of the name-brand smart chargers should work fine, just don't follow my friend LowRyter's advice to buy one from Harbor Freight or Walmart! I'm partial to Battery Tenders because I became friends with the gang at Deltran who kept me supplied. I think they can also be credited with creation of the smart charger category which should count for something. I have Battery Tenders for my two bikes, forklift, boat, and even my 54 year old plane. I don't buy new batteries very often as a result.
 

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Well Mr Blast, I have Harbor Freight chargers on 4 bikes. Two of them cost me $5 ea. They've been working fine for many years.

I will make a point about AGM batteries. Odyssey battery on my V11 Sport particularly needs a high amp charge. My HF unit ($29) doesn't have quite that boost but the readout says it's charging 13.7 v most of the time and the battery is well charged. It needs to be considering the relays and sensors that need a lot of cranking for trouble shooting.

I really enjoy promoting the $5 charger on the Corvette Forum. Mentioning it is almost like farting at the opera. Still, the $5 charger works fine. And no doubt someone with his own areoplane needs a high dollar charger with special electrons.
 

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The only reason I'm skeptical of cheap electronics is because a friend of mine had a cheap solar/wind power setup for his garage. On a particularly windy day, his turbine spun really fast and inverter stopped working, causing his batteries to overcharge and blow up. Fortunately, he was there when it happened to put the fire out, lol.

I do use a cheap HF voltmeter though, and it's worked for years, even after several drops.
 

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For $5 it's hard to beat the HF charger. I think the one with the SAE connector is $20.

The only issue I've had with overcharging is the inverter system on my Toy Hauler. It does have slow charge setting on it but I still have to refill the batteries periodically, geeess prolly should do that again. I run two 6V batteries in series for 12V. The issue with two batteries, when one is shot, it kills the other one. That's happened to me on the travel trailer as well as my Duramax. But have not had an issue with HF chargers overcharging.
 
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