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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike fell off the stand, luckily rear stand prevented major damage. The only damage I see is a bent clutch lever and and scratched bar end. Getting the bike up, the starter will not go. All electrical seems to work, the starter just won't turn.

Would this likely be a relay or solenoid? Is there some other explanation?

Thanks
 

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The gear Lever is ok? As I tipped mine from the sidestand the footpeg of the lever was bend upright what I've noticed as I made a testride. Better check that, I haven't noticed it on first glance.
I could straighten it out by gently bending it in the vice, to be able to ride until my Ducabike lever arrived.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, The bike won't start when it's in gear. I typically keep the bike in gear, pull in the clutch and start it. I assume that the bent clutch lever has affected some type of safety swtich.

Also, the bike is sitting in the garage and the RPM warning lights are blinking with the bike parked and the key off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked the parts list and see the switch and holder. I don't know how to trouble shoot this. I'm thinking of changing the lever, perhaps removing and checking the switch for alignment during the process. at least before purchasing another switch.

I'd appreciate any suggestion.
 

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I assume that the bent clutch lever has affected some type of safety swtich.
You might put it in neutral, then remove the clutch lever assembly, and inspect for damage of micro switch and/or alignment at micro switch contact points. Not sure if it will start with the clutch assembly removed in neutral (can anyone confirm?), but might be worth a try in an attempt to isolate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
You might put it in neutral, then remove the clutch lever assembly, and inspect for damage of micro switch and/or alignment at micro switch contact points. Not sure if it will start with the clutch assembly removed in neutral (can anyone confirm?), but might be worth a try in an attempt to isolate the problem.
Thanks, that's what I was thinking. I'll get a new clutch lever and then pursue that as the next effort. I'd guess that switch alignment would be the next point after installing a new lever. (And I did bend the lever in a vice to keep it level.)

I was pretty fortunate that rear stand was still engaged, since it prevented any other damage to anything but the clutch lever and mechanism. I was pushing the bike with the rear stand off my garage floor cellar door, and must've drug the side stand. Then chaos ensued.
 

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Sorry to hear that LowRyter, these things happen and good to hear it's all repairable. Could the side stand switch be causing a problem? Does the display show it as being down even if it's up? The number of times I've left it down, gone into gear and killed the engine I'm not going to say! Much to my son's amusement! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I installed a new lever and took the microswitch out. The lever tab was bent but no matter how I screwed with it, I couldn't get it to work.

I'll order a new switch since the dealer didn't have one. Since the cord is hardwired into the switch, does anyone know where it terminates? Do I need to remove the tank or to get to it? Does it connect into the harness or into a component?

Thanks

PS- Apparently none of these are in stock and need to be ordered from Italy. I found one on eBay but still a week to deliver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Same happened with mine. Won't start in gear now. I just live with it.
Did you order a new switch?

This bike is easy to kill and notchy to find neutral. Why not fix it? The switch is $50. (if you can get one)
 

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Did you order a new switch?

This bike is easy to kill and notchy to find neutral. Why not fix it? The switch is $50. (if you can get one)
Thanks, good info...my bike has never been difficult to find neutral. Almost from day one. I thought about buying a new clutch assembly and maybe the switch but am always too busy washing my hair ;)
 

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I installed a new lever and took the microswitch out. The lever tab was bent but no matter how I screwed with it, I couldn't get it to work.

I'll order a new switch since the dealer didn't have one. Since the cord is hardwired into the switch, does anyone know where it terminates? Do I need to remove the tank or to get to it? Does it connect into the harness or into a component?

Thanks

PS- Apparently none of these are in stock and need to be ordered from Italy. I found one on eBay but still a week to deliver.
Order it from your dealer. I just ordered some parts through my local dealer (Motocorsa, Portland OR) on 8/26 and they arrived yesterday (8/31) from Italy. It's not as long as you think it may be, and that was over a weekend too. I had the same expierence ordering replacement fairings, showed up 5 days later. I think they use DHL Air for everything.

I broke this same switch changing out my levers. I replaced it myself, the connection is under the front/nose fairing. You'll need to remove the mirrors and IIRC (three years ago when I did it), the windscreen+bracket and nose fairing. If you're clever, you can do it without removing the windscreen+bracket.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Order it from your dealer. I just ordered some parts through my local dealer (Motocorsa, Portland OR) on 8/26 and they arrived yesterday (8/31) from Italy. It's not as long as you think it may be, and that was over a weekend too. I had the same expierence ordering replacement fairings, showed up 5 days later. I think they use DHL Air for everything.

I broke this same switch changing out my levers. I replaced it myself, the connection is under the front/nose fairing. You'll need to remove the mirrors and IIRC (three years ago when I did it), the windscreen+bracket and nose fairing. If you're clever, you can do it without removing the windscreen+bracket.
Thanks for that. I've ordered that part from Ducati. I've tried to cancel an order from a salvage yard because the photo didn't match mine, it's a two piece switch that actually has a separate connector. I may get it anyway.

What about another idea? Why not just splice the wires together? I could use electrical connectors rather than hard splice.
 

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Thanks for that. I've ordered that part from Ducati. I've tried to cancel an order from a salvage yard because the photo didn't match mine, it's a two piece switch that actually has a separate connector. I may get it anyway.

What about another idea? Why not just splice the wires together? I could use electrical connectors rather than hard splice.
Because it needs to be open to start the bike in N and shift with DQS. It needs to be closed to start the bike in gear. If you understand those limitations, then sure, this is a valid solution. Just be sure to let whomever you sell it to, and let work on it, that this is the case. If you take it to a shop I would recommend a big sign on the triple clamp, because the tech test riding it isn't likely the service adjuster you dropped it off with, nor is the technician doing the repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Because it needs to be open to start the bike in N and shift with DQS. It needs to be closed to start the bike in gear. If you understand those limitations, then sure, this is a valid solution. Just be sure to let whomever you sell it to, and let work on it, that this is the case. If you take it to a shop I would recommend a big sign on the triple clamp, because the tech test riding it isn't likely the service adjuster you dropped it off with, nor is the technician doing the repairs.
Sorry Psy, I don't understand. All I'm saying is that I would splice the new switch into the existing wiring rather than install the new one to the connector under the cowl.

Is your point that the wires shouldn't be reversed? I thought I would temporarily test them together and test it before I crimped them together. I don't see a risk other than a botched job. And don't understand your point about signs, techs and service adjuster.
 

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Sorry Psy, I don't understand. All I'm saying is that I would splice the new switch into the existing wiring rather than install the new one to the connector under the cowl.

Is your point that the wires shouldn't be reversed? I thought I would temporarily test them together and test it before I crimped them together. I don't see a risk other than a botched job. And don't understand your point about signs, techs and service adjuster.
Looks like I completely misunderstood what you were referencing, I assumed you meant to just connect the two poles together to have the switch "always on."

It's only about 30 minutes of work for the un-initiated to remove the front panel and replace the switch correctly. If I lived closer I'd come over and do it with you; rather than have a dodgy splice in line when there's a perfectly functional plug just a few inches away.
 
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