Breakdowns? (!)

6019 Views 31 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Rog36, May 29, 2017

Spanner

Discussion Starter · May 13, 2017

Got to work about a week ago and had to show some of the bikers the bike, as you do, and there was a spot of oil on the ground (150 miles on the clock) and the bottom of the exhaust was oily. I had noted that it slid a bit on the way to work through a r-hand bend, but I obviously ignored that as I was blasting about just a little over exuberantly (er, I mean running it in... cough).
Anyway, I wasn't overly worried as it seemed to be coming from the filter, so called the boys at MotoRapido in Winchester as they are about 2 miles from my work and popped over. Once they got it upon the ramp and fairings off you could see it was originating from much higher than than filter. The oil-seal from the top back timing pulley had failed.

short version - they gave me a bike for the night and I went back and picked it up at midday the next day... gotta love their workshop!
To be fair, they were annoyed as it's not as if this is a new engine, but would be interesting to know if anyone else has had any issues?

Again, big thumbs up to the team at my local dealer, they handled it all perfectly!

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

MeatBaller69

· #2 · May 13, 2017

Spanner said:
Got to work about a week ago and had to show some of the bikers the bike, as you do, and there was a spot of oil on the ground (150 miles on the clock) and the bottom of the exhaust was oily. I had noted that it slid a bit on the way to work through a r-hand bend, but I obviously ignored that as I was blasting about just a little over exuberantly (er, I mean running it in... cough).
Anyway, I wasn't overly worried as it seemed to be coming from the filter, so called the boys at MotoRapido in Winchester as they are about 2 miles from my work and popped over. Once they got it upon the ramp and fairings off you could see it was originating from much higher than than filter. The oil-seal from the top back timing pulley had failed.

short version - they gave me a bike for the night and I went back and picked it up at midday the next day... gotta love their workshop!
To be fair, they were annoyed as it's not as if this is a new engine, but would be interesting to know if anyone else has had any issues?

Again, big thumbs up to the team at my local dealer, they handled it all perfectly!

Wow...Not cool at all! But glad it got fixed up quick for you. I haven't had any issues other than neutral is tricky to pull. I've put 220 miles on mine so far, so I'll keep an eye out and keep my fingers crossed

Spanner

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 13, 2017

i'm on about 280 miles now (been raining for a couple of days, so multi has been getting wet as it needs a shower to wash off the fly splatter), and no other problems here!

the demo they had was a little annoying in finding neutral, but my S hasn't been bad at all, especially for a new g-box.

i did notice a couple of changes into 5th today taking longer than usual for the quick shift to move to, but i put it down to riding like an arse at the time... 0

Reactions: 1

steeve

· #4 · May 13, 2017

Only thing I've noticed are front fork reflectors falling off, after 650 miles I'm still finding neutral a pig to engage. I can select it rolling to a stop but when stopped it's impossible to engage, I have to switch the engine off, front brake lines rub the horn (rhs) when turning the forks, all the bikes I've looked at do this.

But it's not broken down. I just love it.

Reactions: 1

Spanner

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 13, 2017

The guys at MotoRapido put the reflectors onto the curved part of the forks so that they could be pulled off easily...
It's the little things in life!

MeatBaller69

· #6 · May 13, 2017

steeve said:
Only thing I've noticed are front fork reflectors falling off, after 650 miles I'm still finding neutral a pig to engage. I can select it rolling to a stop but when stopped it's impossible to engage, I have to switch the engine off, front brake lines rub the horn (rhs) when turning the forks, all the bikes I've looked at do this.

But it's not broken down. I just love it.

Since reading that you've gotten that many miles on her already. Makes me envious haha. I was hoping the oil change out at 300 miles would take care of it. I read where you adjusted the freeplay. Neutral for me is easier when I bump down to 1st and back up to engage. This is mainly at cold take off's. After the engine has warmed it seems easier to find even coming down out of second. I wonder if it could be an adjustment needed in the DQS?

amoslws

· #7 · May 13, 2017

Spanner said:
i'm on about 280 miles now (been raining for a couple of days, so multi has been getting wet as it needs a shower to wash off the fly splatter), and no other problems here!

the demo they had was a little annoying in finding neutral, but my S hasn't been bad at all, especially for a new g-box.

i did notice a couple of changes into 5th today taking longer than usual for the quick shift to move to, but i put it down to riding like an arse at the time... 0

I have sensed an issue with my 5th too. I will monitor it more closely tomorrow when the sun is out on the motorcycle awareness mass ride.

oldndumb

· #8 · May 13, 2017

MeatBaller69 said:
Since reading that you've gotten that many miles on her already. Makes me envious haha. I was hoping the oil change out at 300 miles would take care of it. I read where you adjusted the freeplay. Neutral for me is easier when I bump down to 1st and back up to engage. This is mainly at cold take off's. After the engine has warmed it seems easier to find even coming down out of second. I wonder if it could be an adjustment needed in the DQS?

Did you change your oil at 300 or was that a typo? Reason I ask is because the book calls for 600 oil change.

Gear box cogs are fresh cut and will break in with miles.

The QS function is not adjustable other than the enable/disable options described in the owner manual.

The shift rod length is adjustable per the manual with different procedures for the non-QS and the QS models. Be warned that the instructions for the QS adjustment is in error. The Heim rod end described in the manual is non-existant. Instead, there is a pinch clamp about halfway on the rod which must be loosened. Then the aft end of the rod must be disconnected from the shift lever. This allows the aft portion of the rod to be screwed in or out accordingly. Be aware that a minimum length for the rod is specified with a plus or minus tolerance. Quite surprising the effect on the shift lever by taking advantage of the tolerance range. Sort of reminds me of MOA. >

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oldndumb

· #9 · May 13, 2017

amoslws said:
I have sensed an issue with my 5th too. I will monitor it more closely tomorrow when the sun is out on the motorcycle awareness mass ride.

I know you are wearing the correct boots. :smile2: So, might help to lower the lever.

amoslws

· #10 · May 13, 2017

oldndumb said:
I know you are wearing the correct boots. :smile2: So, might help to lower the lever.

@oldndumb
Does the DQS need to be adjusted with the gear lever or only the lever. I rephrase that, when turning the gear lever a notch up or down on the spline, should I adjust the DQS proportionally or should I neglect the DQS. I ask you because you have already played with it.

MeatBaller69

· #11 · May 13, 2017

oldndumb said:
Did you change your oil at 300 or was that a typo? Reason I ask is because the book calls for 600 oil change.

Gear box cogs are fresh cut and will break in with miles.

The QS function is not adjustable other than the enable/disable options described in the owner manual.

The shift rod length is adjustable per the manual with different procedures for the non-QS and the QS models. Be warned that the instructions for the QS adjustment is in error. The Heim rod end described in the manual is non-existant. Instead, there is a pinch clamp about halfway on the rod which must be loosened. Then the aft end of the rod must be disconnected from the shift lever. This allows the aft portion of the rod to be screwed in or out accordingly. Be aware that a minimum length for the rod is specified with a plus or minus tolerance. Quite surprising the effect on the shift lever by taking advantage of the tolerance range. Sort of reminds me of MOA. >

My apologies I did mean to type 6 not 3 ignore that haha

oldndumb

· #12 · May 13, 2017

I would leave the lever which is connected to the input shaft alone and do the foot lever adjustment using the QS shaft as descried in post 8, this thread.

My experience has been that trying to adjust the foot lever position by moving the input shaft lever resulted in too large/coarse of a change. Adjusting the QS lever length allows for a finer adjustment.

Hope nobody thinks I'm being smug with this info because my tolerance upper level is being approached.

Spanner

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 13, 2017

i agree with the above, plus most people (it seems) are still running in and therefore i wouldn't get too excited to try and fine tune too much just yet, plenty of time later when the gearboxes bed in.

In other news, dealers laugh at you when you ask if the oil change they had to do when fixing a bike at 150 miles counts as the first service... worth a try!

Reactions: 1

MeatBaller69

· #14 · May 13, 2017

oldndumb said:
I would leave the lever which is connected to the input shaft alone and do the foot lever adjustment using the QS shaft as descried in post 8, this thread.

My experience has been that trying to adjust the foot lever position by moving the input shaft lever resulted in too large/coarse of a change. Adjusting the QS lever length allows for a finer adjustment.

Hope nobody thinks I'm being smug with this info because my tolerance upper level is being approached.

My apologies OldN, I've read many of your post and find your wisdom appealing, and in time may get your humor. Thanks again for the info!

rz33v4

· #15 · May 13, 2017

steeve said:
Only thing I've noticed are front fork reflectors falling off, after 650 miles I'm still finding neutral a pig to engage. I can select it rolling to a stop but when stopped it's impossible to engage, I have to switch the engine off, front brake lines rub the horn (rhs) when turning the forks, all the bikes I've looked at do this.

But it's not broken down. I just love it.

So Steeve, select neutral when rolling to a stop....

klev

· #16 · May 13, 2017

Not technically a breakdown, but has anyone noticed a metal clicking sounds from the bike after turning off the bike after a long ride. at first i thought it was probably some work going on where i live, but its not. it seems to be coming from the exhaust pipes or the converter.

amoslws

· #17 · May 13, 2017

klev said:
Not technically a breakdown, but has anyone noticed a metal clicking sounds from the bike after turning off the bike after a long ride. at first i thought it was probably some work going on where i live, but its not. it seems to be coming from the exhaust pipes or the converter.

I think that's quite normal on any bike. Its generally the cooling down of the headers / branches. Tick, tick tick noise. Such a lovely sound.

Spanner

Discussion Starter · #18 · May 13, 2017

klev said:
Not technically a breakdown, but has anyone noticed a metal clicking sounds from the bike after turning off the bike after a long ride. at first i thought it was probably some work going on where i live, but its not. it seems to be coming from the exhaust pipes or the converter.

Y'know when your GF/Wife is getting overweight, and you inadvertently inform her of this (i.e. when she says does my arse look big in this skirt and you answer, dunno something is blotting out the sun?), well, after she puffs herself up and throws things at you, if you're conscious, you'll hear some little grinding noises which, i beleive, is her contracting as she cools down and gets smaller... or at least back to her normal size

Metal does the same apparently... >

Reactions: 4

oldndumb

· #19 · May 13, 2017

MeatBaller69 said:
My apologies OldN, I've read many of your post and find your wisdom appealing, and in time may get your humor. Thanks again for the info!

My apologies to you, friend. I should have realized that I was taking out my annoyance with a few others on you. I should not have done that. Thank you for taking the high road.

klev

· #20 · May 14, 2017

amoslws said:
I think that's quite normal on any bike. Its generally the cooling down of the headers / branches. Tick, tick tick noise. Such a lovely sound.

Spanner said:
Y'know when your GF/Wife is getting overweight, and you inadvertently inform her of this (i.e. when she says does my arse look big in this skirt and you answer, dunno something is blotting out the sun?), well, after she puffs herself up and throws things at you, if you're conscious, you'll hear some little grinding noises which, i beleive, is her contracting as she cools down and gets smaller... or at least back to her normal size

Metal does the same apparently... >

Still ways to go ways to until i have a wife, but i understand...lol
Figured as much, jst didnt expect it to be this much. But gotta say that chamber is quite big!

Reactions: 1

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