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Discussion Starter #1
I'm kind of stuck here.

June 10th my CEL came on after riding home from work in slow traffic. Outside temperature was around 28 degrees celcius and the engine temp went up to 104 degrees at the most. I was wearing earplugs and couldn't hear if the fan went on or not. The bike sounded and rode just as usual, nothing to indicate something was wrong. I checked the exhaust valve servo motor and could see that it was moving freely when starting the bike and giving throttle.

The day after I ordered the OBD2 bluetooth fault code reader and the cable adaptor from Lonelec. The reader arrived quickly as I ordered it here from Sweden but the cable adaptor has still not arrived and Lonelec cannot confirm when it will (12 days and counting)

The thing is that I have full insurance on the bike and engine/mechanical damage is covered for a deductible of only €100, but I didn't want to go through the hassle of taking it to the dealer if it is a minor issue and the fault code could simply be cleared. The problem now is that next week on Saturday I am going on a carpentry course across the country and was eager to go there with my bike.

If there is something wrong that needs attending to I will need to take the bike to the dealer anyway and likely now there isn't enough time to get it fixed depending on what the issue is. Now I regret not taking the bike to the dealer right away. I don't know if I should risk it and just wait for the cable or take it to the dealer and risk not having it ready for my trip anyway + a potential unnecessary deductible cost if it turns out to be a bullshit fault code. Aaaaaaargh! 😖

Yesterday evening, 12 days after CEL came on I started the bike to see if it was still on and it wasn't! So I thought yay I can take the bike to work! This morning when I started the bike the light came on again as soon as I rode out of the parking lot and I had to drive it all the way to work as by that time I would've been late to work if I took the bus.

WHAT TO DO?!? 😩
 

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You need the reader and torque app to get to the bottom of it for peace of mind. If you have another obd cable you can cut the end from it with 40cm or so of free cable, expose the cable conductors and with a multi-meter or battery and light bulb, you can identify the pins from the obd to the Duc CAN plug. The duc plug has numbers 1 - 4 to help identify them. Twist and solder the cable ends nicely and push them into the CAN connector, making sure they are all separated and not touching, inserting pin 1 last as its the 12v. There are diagrams online showing the obd to can plug pin outs. Its quite a simple process if youre stuck and have the tools or have a friend who does.
Take your time ....or take it to the stealer
 

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Hmm, sorry this happened, especially when looking forward to a trip; sounds like it might not be simple to clear. Possibly O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hmm, sorry this happened, especially when looking forward to a trip; sounds like it might not be simple to clear. Possibly O2 sensor.
I'm guessing a faulty O2 sensor would be a fairly easy thing to fix for a dealer, no? What could happen if the bike is run with a faulty O2 sensor?
 

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Yes, easy for dealer to fix.

Probably not high risk, fuel mixture might be off some...but, personally, I wouldn’t ride it like that on a trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm at work now, if I haven't gotten the OBD cable in the mail when I get home I'll drop the bike off at the dealer.
 

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CEL warning goes away after three starts of the engine if the problems has disappeared. (short ride required too, I think.) If the problem remains, the light will stay on. So it seems the problem has disappeared for now.

Very common cause for the CEL light is sticking exhaust flap. Flap is there mostly to reduce noise on limited rpm range. It sticking will cause the light to come on, but not really anything else. Exhaust flap is located under the small cover in the front of the catalysator and is actuated via a cable by a servo motor in front of the catalysator, underneath the engine. You can hear the servo running on and off when you turn the ignition on. Cleaning the flap and the cable, and oiling them will cure the problem for some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CEL warning goes away after three starts of the engine if the problems has disappeared. (short ride required too, I think.) If the problem remains, the light will stay on. So it seems the problem has disappeared for now.

Very common cause for the CEL light is sticking exhaust flap. Flap is there mostly to reduce noise on limited rpm range. It sticking will cause the light to come on, but not really anything else. Exhaust flap is located under the small cover in the front of the catalysator and is actuated via a cable by a servo motor in front of the catalysator, underneath the engine. You can hear the servo running on and off when you turn the ignition on. Cleaning the flap and the cable, and oiling them will cure the problem for some time.
I think you misunderstood. The light went off yesterday evening when I just started the bike standing still. This morning when I drove it to work it went on again as soon as I started moving. I have started the bike at least 6-7 times after the CEL went on for the first time two weeeks ago.

I have checked the exhaust valve, it is moving freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Okay, so when the dealer turned on the bike the CEL was of course not on anymore. When he connected to the bike he could only see a fault code log of the exhaust valve which must've been from last year when the wire jumped out of the servo motor.

I drove the bike back home and after 30min driving, when I'm almost back home the CEL comes on again 😬

I connect the OBD2 reader and the Torque Lite App gives an active fault code "P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input".

What does this mean? Clogged air filter? Can I even trust that the fault code P0112 even means "Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input" or could this just be what the code means for other common car brands?

I've had the bike for 3 years now and it's gone 21000km. Air filter has not yet been replaced but it was cleaned during the last annual service in August 2019.
 

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Sorry to hear this. Seems like it’s possible could be clogged air filter, or failed intake sensor, or wiring problem.

@Derek Any further comments?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So I found a Ducati fault code list on this site: Code List DTC Ducati

Lists the following codes:

P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent


I guess this means the fault code description from Torque lite is reliable.

Also found this: P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
 

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Sorry to hear this. Seems like it’s possible could be clogged air filter, or failed intake sensor, or wiring problem.

@Derek Any further comments?
It means the signal from the air temperature sensor is lower then the expected range. It could mean a faulty sensor or simply a bad connection to it. The sensor is a NTC thermistor with a resistance dependent on temperature. It is mounted behind the headlamp and is not expensive @ £34 in the UK. I would unplug it and reconnect it a few times first to see if there is any change.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks your your replies! I took the bike back to the dealer. They replaced the sensor and now the CEL has been off at least on my drive back.

**** news is that it seems it's gonna be pouring on Saturday when I'm planning to drive across the country so I'm probably just going to take the train... 😒
 

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It measures the ambient temperature.

It's used for the dash display external temperature and by the ecu for calculating fueling.
 
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