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37mm (1.5") is good, but the bike should be unloaded and on its side stand. Page 272 of the manual.
My thinking was that means loaded, vs no weight on wheel (such as on a center stand).

But have the same meaning with opposite words. 0:)
I take unloaded to mean no-one sitting on the bike, panniers full of gear, tank bags or any other form of luggage...
 

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Following the manual worked great for me. I don't think 37mm is too tight. Just follow the instructions, it's really very simple and hard to **** it up.
 

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I went for a ride this morning and the chain looked a little droopy. When I got home, I got the tape measure and it was little passed 1 1/2 in. Adjusting is pretty fine adjustment, bump it up and bump it down. Finally got it at 1 3/8. Tightened it up and it's a skosh loose, maybe 1/32.

Close enough. With conventional swingarms I've noted a tendency for the chain to tighten up after cinched, is the opposite possible for this bike?

Bike has just about 7900 miles, this is my 2nd adjustment. I was going to clean & lube it but it was 97 degree when I got home. Good enough for now.
 

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I find it much easier to find the right spot with the rear wheel on a track stand. So I carefully set the slack at 35 and then 37mm as recommended. But put it on the track stand and remeasured. I got 31 and 33 mm respectively.
I'm seeing the exact same thing: measuring and adjusting it on the rear paddock stand to the correct tension, but then putting it back on its side stand, it's way more tight.

Is it definitely the side stand?
 

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I'm seeing the exact same thing: measuring and adjusting it on the rear paddock stand to the correct tension, but then putting it back on its side stand, it's way more tight.

Is it definitely the side stand?
Mine is tighter with the rear wheel off the ground. Because the swinging arm pivot is offset from the sprocket center, the tension will change as the swinging arm goes through its arc. That's why the manufacturers specify a tension with the swinging arm loaded or unloaded. I set it very carefully with it on the side stand. Then put it on the track stand and measured it again.
 

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The difference between the 2 different position is normal. In the manual it's written on the side stand but I don't feel a special difficulty to do it, with the good spanner.
I just checked and I have the same as Keith Gill. +/- 35mm on the side stand correspond to +/- 31 mm on the track stand.

But, is there a end position in the chain-adjustment which mean that the kit is dead?
I never reach to know when mine's need to be changed.
41123


What do you think about the teeth appearance for 13500miles?
 

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Matt, The teeth look curved, the points going clockwise. It could be an illusion.

I adjust mine on the rear stand. Even though the swingarm is perhaps a little more loaded than being on the sidestand, I can't notice that it affects the adjustment. I can usually eyeball it when the chain has a too much slack. Since I'll clean and lube it and check for tight spots, I just do the whole thing on the rear stand.

I've also sworn off the chain wax and have had good luck with gear oil.
 

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The difference between the 2 different position is normal. In the manual it's written on the side stand but I don't feel a special difficulty to do it, with the good spanner.
I just checked and I have the same as Keith Gill. +/- 35mm on the side stand correspond to +/- 31 mm on the track stand.

But, is there a end position in the chain-adjustment which mean that the kit is dead?
I never reach to know when mine's need to be changed.
View attachment 41123

What do you think about the teeth appearance for 13500miles?
The teeth look slightly worn on their back side. It's probably an illusion as any wear should be on the other side. I have over 20,000 mls on the bike. I changed the original chain at around 10k but kept the original sprockets. I just bought new sprockets. I traced the tooth profile to compare it to the original sprocket. I can't see any wear. Tooth profiles look identical. Perhaps the front will show more wear.
 
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