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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This seems like a maintainance question, so I'm putting it here. :D

I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the clutch freeplay on this bike. The knob/nut for the clutch cable adjustment seems like it doesnt want to move at all. I see a little silver tab below it that holds it in place. Do you have to loosen that first then adjust, then tighten it down?

Once you can adjust that, is it important to have the handlebars facing to the right so that the cable is at full tension?

Thanks!
 

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The knob should be turned to adjust the freeplay. The one on mine is very tight to turn, try using gloves for a better grip. I aim for about 2 - 3mm of free play. If the cable run is correct there should be no difference lock to lock but turn the bars fully both ways to ensure that the free play remains the same.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The knob should be turned to adjust the freeplay. The one on mine is very tight to turn, try using gloves for a better grip. I aim for about 2 - 3mm of free play. If the cable run is correct there should be no difference lock to lock but turn the bars fully both ways to ensure that the free play remains the same.
Thanks. Do you need to loosen the silver tab that holds tension on that knob? or is it there to be tight and "click". I cant think of how to get at that thing unless i loosen the entire assembly to roll it up, though.
 

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The knob should be turned to adjust the freeplay. The one on mine is very tight to turn, try using gloves for a better grip. I aim for about 2 - 3mm of free play. If the cable run is correct there should be no difference lock to lock but turn the bars fully both ways to ensure that the free play remains the same.
Thanks. Do you need to loosen the silver tab that holds tension on that knob? or is it there to be tight and "click". I cant think of how to get at that thing unless i loosen the entire I to roll it up, though.
I think it's one piece. They both rotate together, you can't separate them.
 

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the previous poster mentioned the silver tab is one piece. it is not. it's clearly a locking mechanism for the clutch tension adjuster. its held in place with a screw. You can bend back or unscrew that tab. mine was bent back when I got it. Maybe I need to put back into the groove to relock? I'm trying to figure out the best setting too as I just installed new levers. the ones mentioned on this forum, non-ducati branded but just as good folding levers. (thanks forum). The tension has been bugging me because it feels too tight now, but when I back it off it seems like its too loose to fully clutch in. I think I'll have another rider advise me.
 

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I aso changed my levers.


But, now the quickhifter doesnt work - anyone else had this problem?


Its weird, because it works if I roll off the throttle a little....



Thanks
Andy
 

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I aso changed my levers.


But, now the quickhifter doesnt work - anyone else had this problem?


Its weird, because it works if I roll off the throttle a little....



Thanks
Andy
Yes, with some levers...what type did you get?
 

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Just generic short alloy levers (cheap) work fine but just a bit annoying.


Didnt need to adjust the cable, but might need to???


Andy
 

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Just generic short alloy levers (cheap) work fine but just a bit annoying.


Didnt need to adjust the cable, but might need to???


Andy
Seem to recall someone had a problem like this. Something about a microswitch in the clutch lever assembly that over-rides the quickshifter if the clutch lever is pulled. The switch might be engaiging/ disengaging with the new lever so it thinks you are clutching the change.
 

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Something about a microswitch in the clutch lever assembly that over-rides the quickshifter if the clutch lever is pulled. The switch might be engaiging/ disengaging with the new lever so it thinks you are clutching the change.
What he said. There is a small metal switch inside the perch for the lever and it is EASY to damage it when changing levers, said the guy who broke one on his Wife’s bike. The switch “tells” the bike when you have the clutch lever pulled in and also apparently disengages the DQS. The switch comes out and is not hard to replace if it gets damaged. The DQS quit working and replacing the clutch switch fixed it.
 
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The aftermarket levers often have the wrong profile to activate the switch. You will probably fine that you can start the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in either. I had to modify the clutch lever by fitting a small length of screwed rod at the base to enable it to push the switch. I think I posted a picture here somewhere.
 
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I had noticed that adjuster - what a daft place to put it. I'm sure it could just as easily have been located above the clutch end at the rear of the vertical cylinder.
 

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Yeah, why there? It's a long cable...they could have surely made it a bit more accessible. Thanks for the update, though. Luckily, I like mine...or I've simply gotten used to it, now.
 

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I have pulled out the clutch cable of the SS. In the centre of the cable is a proper adjuster. Sadly the airbox has to come out to get to it. But for those who are genuinely not happy with the clutch, pics below show you the cable and adjuster.
As I've mentioned before, nothing on the SS is simple and straightforward.
Let me tell you, the battery box
is nothing to smile at either. Today I'm trying to finish off the conversion. Took me ages to get the exhaust on, then I had to take it off again just to assemble the oil cooler bracket..
@Derek
Ah, here's an interesting find. I reassembled the swingarm four times because I just could not get rid of an illogical gap between the swingarm, its bushing and the crankcase. So this morning I took my vernier along to the dealer.. It was nice to chat with some of the guys because the only ducati dealer in the country is closing down.. 456.
Anyway the pic below is of a brand new untouched SS swingarm. The left side looking forward. Low and behold even the OEM has the same gap. Feeling relieved but equally annoyed. Give us a [email protected] manual ducati.
 

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