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2019MY Ducati Supersport S
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@Bassem.nomany The pictures I posted show the connectors for the O2 sensors. Pic 1 is images of most of rhs of bike with seat removed. Pic 2 is from rhs of bike with fuel tank lifted. It shows the connector end (female) after I unplugged the rear O2 sensor. Pic 3 shows me holding the male connector end that is attached to the wire that is attached to the rear O2 sensor. Pic 4 shows my hand next to the battery and the two connectors (make and female) separated and wrapped in high quality auto underbody insulating tape. You can see I used a white cable tie to hold one of the connectors in place so it does not move around. Pic 5 is just an image of my bike! Pic 6 is not helpful as the angle I took it from does not allow you to see the front cylinder O2 connectors (I took that and pic 5 just to show fairing removal). Pic 7 shows the rear cylinder O2 connectors on lhs of image before I disconnected them.

The front cylinder O2 sensor (bolted to the front exhaust pipe) and the associated connector down by the battery are visible when you remove the lhs fairing.

The rear cylinder O2 sensor is visible on rhs of bike in front of rear wheel area. The associated connector is under fuel tank on rhs.

Regarding the fuel tank, it really is not heavy, but you should have a second person hold it tipped to left whilst you work on the connectors. Holding the tank for more than a few minutes may mean your friend’s arms become tired. That is where the towel comes in. We used several towels to enable my friend to rest the fuel tank against the left hand side of the bike.Towels provided protection against paintwork damage. There was no fuel leaking at all. My friend and I were able to rest the tank in the towels and he could then just balance and keep things in place whilst I disconnected the O2 connectors under the fuel tank, wrapped the ends and ensured everything was organised.

I do suggest you take photos at every stepin case you need to check as you go.

Hope that helps. Reach out if you need more information.
 

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I have been brave Today. And followed the footsteps of @Sprint1500 too.
It took 2h using the pics as guidance, also was nice to clean under the fairings and inspect the bike.

Thanks a lot, guys. It would have taken me longer time to figure out where's the front header o2 without your pics 😊

I used regular electric isolating tape, will ask them to use better ones during service.

The unresponsive feeling when bike is cold entirely disappeared. Also bike is quite predictable below 4000 rpm now regardless of cold or not.
Before even at warm, power used to be holding back below 4k rpm and all of sudden you get a power bump after which is a bit sketchy in roundabout speeds.

Thanks a lot again ❤
 

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@Sprint1500 do you have the CW baffle in or out, and which Termi map do you have installed?

Stock is code OEM
w/ db-killer is code D181 FD
w/o db-killer is code D181 FR
 

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@Sprint1500 do you have the CW baffle in or out, and which Termi map do you have installed?

Stock is code OEM
w/ db-killer is code D181 FD
w/o db-killer is code D181 FR
@brucemswan Originally I had the baffle out and ran D181 FR, but I found it too loud for day to day riding (even with ear plugs), so I installed the baffle and bought and downloaded D181 FD map to suit. Happy compromise.
 

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@brucemswan Originally I had the baffle out and ran D181 FR, but I found it too loud for day to day riding (even with ear plugs), so I installed the baffle and bought and downloaded D181 FD map to suit. Happy compromise.
Ok thanks, I have a CW exhaust and am thinking about upgrading to the upmap, great to hear from someone with the identical setup. Few more questions... given the similar profile between the Termi and the CW exhausts systems, I understand why you matched the baffle in/out with the appropriate map, but did you notice any issues with running the FR map with the baffle in? Ideally I could put my bike on a dyno to see exactly how its tracking the ideal A/F ratio but around my area shops want stupid money for just a few pulls. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like after you disconnected the o2 sensors, and the bike is warmed up a bit, it runs great from the bottom, formally the closed loop area, through the entire RPM range? Any other issues you can think of before I jump into this?
 

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Ok thanks, I have a CW exhaust and am thinking about upgrading to the upmap, great to hear from someone with the identical setup. Few more questions... given the similar profile between the Termi and the CW exhausts systems, I understand why you matched the baffle in/out with the appropriate map, but did you notice any issues with running the FR map with the baffle in? Ideally I could put my bike on a dyno to see exactly how its tracking the ideal A/F ratio but around my area shops want stupid money for just a few pulls. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like after you disconnected the o2 sensors, and the bike is warmed up a bit, it runs great from the bottom, formally the closed loop area, through the entire RPM range? Any other issues you can think of before I jump into this?
@brucemswan When I bought the bike used the previous owner only had the FR map matching the CW exhaust. When I found it too loud, I discussed the situation with Termignoni (by email) to a). Check the CW and UpMap made sense - which they do as Termignoni implied close enough in performance to their own equivalent exhaust and b). To understand if worth investing in the FD map to match inserting the baffle. I haven’t done much back to back, but I decided to buy the FD map based on my research and advice from UpMap who had developed the different maps to suit each back pressure situation. I did run the FR map with baffle in, but not for long. My approach was to just get the FD map. At the same time I disconnected the O2 sensors and since then I have found the package works really well (for me). And yes, I found disconnecting the O2 sensors has improved the round town low engine speed fuelling and hence smoothness.
 

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Great. Thanks for the info, I plan on moving forward with this in the next couple of weeks.
 
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Great. Thanks for the info, I plan on moving forward with this in the next couple of weeks.
Great. Thanks for the info, I plan on moving forward with this in the next couple of weeks.
@brucemswan Let me know how you go and what you think...you do get one free map when you buy the UpMap bluetooth module. Make sure you get the cable to connect to the diagnostic connector under the seat. When you flash the ECU, the dash will go haywire. Its all intuitive though.
 
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