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2017 Ducati Supersport
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Discussion Starter #1
2017 SS. Just installed the ducabike hydraulic kit with CNC Racing wet bath, slave unit, sprocket cover, pressure plate, and pressure plate retainer. For the most part everything went smooth. Only hiccup was getting the pressure plate back in, the first steel ring was out of whack and couldnt tell. Took it all back off then aligned it, and all worked fine so I thought. I have the ball bearing installed at the bearing per DUCAs instructions. And had to use a 8mm spacer inside the slave to get it to actuate correctly. I now have an issue of getting the bike into N. When the engine is off I can shift into N no problem. When running, its almost impossible, even while moving.

Did any of you guys do this mod and if so what do you think could be my issue here? Also did you have to use a spacer inside your slave unit to get it to work properly?
 

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Can't answer your Neutral issue, but I can talk about the rod length. If the bearing in the pressure plate seized (more likely on the dry clutch bikes) it would turn the rod into a drill bit and burn through the back of the clutch slave piston.

Ducati has two different specs for hydraulic clutch actuation rods. The spec chaned around 1999 or. The older rod was 8mm shorter than the newer rod.

The updated longer rod has a roll-pin across the diameter and engages in a slot in the piston, they call this an anti-spin rod as the rod fixed to the piston will force the bearing in the pressure plate to spin around it. It requires a properly machined piston and if you tried to use the old rod with a new style slave you wouldn't get it to assemble correctly because of the rod length.

The result is that if you are using the older, shorter rod with a newer deeper slave piston, you need an 8mm spacer in the bottom of the piston. Most slaves come with an optional insert, or you can just use a simple 8mm ball bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply. the ducabike conversion kit comes with it's own rod. i also installed the cnc racing 30mm clutch slave and currently have 2mm worth of spacing in it. The rod also came with a 8mm ball as a spacer that i have installed at the bearing itself. I believe i found the problem with Neutral is that i also switched to 300v oil. i have read in here that others experienced issues when switching to 300v and finding neutral. Your info was definitely helpful insight.
 

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Oh, you used a different slave. Your issue may be a slave that is mismatched to the master. If the slave diameter is too large the master may not displace enough fluid to get it to actuate the pressure plate fully. Even just a little bit of drag can prevent shifting into Neutral.

If you have a clutch lever that has adjustable reach, try extending the reach as far from the bar as you can to see if you have any improvement. You can test by placing the bike on a rear stand in 1st gear, then testing wheel rotation as you pull the clutch lever to disengage the clutch. Fully disengaged it should have the same feel/drag as being in Neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, you used a different slave. Your issue may be a slave that is mismatched to the master. If the slave diameter is too large the master may not displace enough fluid to get it to actuate the pressure plate fully. Even just a little bit of drag can prevent shifting into Neutral.

If you have a clutch lever that has adjustable reach, try extending the reach as far from the bar as you can to see if you have any improvement. You can test by placing the bike on a rear stand in 1st gear, then testing wheel rotation as you pull the clutch lever to disengage the clutch. Fully disengaged it should have the same feel/drag as being in Neutral.
Thanks for the reply. The slave I used is the same as the ducabike, its a 30mm piston, so lighter pull. I rode it today freeway and streets, seems to be ok other than trouble finding N now, which I contribute to using 300v oil now for the first time. I will try the stand test to see how it does. Wouldn't the wheel still spin ever so slightly in first even though the clutch lever is pulled all the way in?
 

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I can't speak much about tehnicalities, but : I bought the bike with hydraulic clutch already installed, with 4000km ,fresh Shell oil and finding N was not possible at all when engine is running.
My mechanic adjusted the clutch lever - that helped a little bit - I could find the N most of the time when engine was warm and still rolling.
Then I adjusted the clutch footpeg lever (like advised here on the forum) - and there it is - N every single time I need it.

Could it be the same issue with your bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now that i have put about 150 miles on the new 300v oil, I was able to find N about 50% of the time. Will see if adjusting the footpeg lever helps. Thanks for the reply.
 

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I'm assuming the bike itself doesn't have low miles being a 2017? I used to run 300V and don't remember having much issue getting neutral except when the bike was cold. I've since switch to T7100 motul 10w-40 since it's quite a bit cheaper. Don't have much issue finding neutral and the bike doesn't run any hotter. There is a TSB for measuring the oil pressure related to shifting, but not sure if the hydraulic clutch negates that issue.
 

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I'm assuming the bike itself doesn't have low miles being a 2017? I used to run 300V and don't remember having much issue getting neutral except when the bike was cold. I've since switch to T7100 motul 10w-40 since it's quite a bit cheaper. Don't have much issue finding neutral and the bike doesn't run any hotter. There is a TSB for measuring the oil pressure related to shifting, but not sure if the hydraulic clutch negates that issue.
i have 6800 miles on it now. N is now getting easier to find again so i assume the 300v just took a short break in period. thanks for the reply
 
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