ECU mapping

Good luck.

I have friends who installed RapidBike units on their SportClassics and Monsters and they mostly are happy with them. However, because of ongoing problems with others my dealer has stopped selling and servicing them.

I have used the PowerCommander PCV with AutoTune and their QS module on my 1100 EVO. I was ready to sell the bike because of the crap fueling and then the dealer tech suggested the PCV with AT. I could not believe the difference after only one remap. Subsequent remaps kept improving the running until I could not tell the difference.

One thing I like about the PCV is that it comes with wide band O2 sensors. I do not see how any system can claim auto tuning without them? Another point in their favor is that they acknowledge sensor accuracy deterioration over time may occur, so they provide an accuracy test protocol. The PCV does not affect low idle running, but, if that is a problem they include O2 sensor (narrow band) optimizers. I did not need them on my bike.

Not knocking RapidBike because I have no first hand knowledge (nfhk) of them , just sharing what I have heard. YMMV :smile2:

Hugg727 said:

@amoslws let me know how this goes. Would a lean condition make the bike run hotter? Just a thought.....

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Yes it will.
Contacted the service centre today to hear if the warranty will be void if I install the rapid bike ecu, sadly the manager said Ducati Italy will void the warranty. He also mentioned that the engine will be healthier and likely last longer with the rapid bike but because of Ducati Italy's commitment to Euro 4 emissions regulations, they have to be seen to be transparent and uphold the regulation. My point was that I would not be changing the advanced timing anyway so what could go wrong when all the rapid bike ecu 'WILL' be doing is dynamically and digitally amending the AFR to create a smoother ride. The warranty issue has not changed my mind, no ways I am riding the bike like this. My eye balls rattle in their sockets at 8000rpm, can see sh!t. Euro 4 causes issues for me at my altitude so I am going ahead and changing it.

Edit: My local importer wrote the base maps for the agusta model and handed them over to the Rapid bike manufacturer because those bikes could not run at high altitude. I am sure I can trust them not to mess up my SS.

amoslws said:

What I want to do is take the power from the high range and transfer it to the lower and medium range where I will be using the bike a lot. Using this rapid electronics kit I expect to achieve that.

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I'll be watching with some curiosity what you are able to achieve. You might consider a cam change, and/or some adjustable cam timing gears. The valve overlap is pretty narrow on these motors, hence the moniker - Testastretta 11°. The narrow overlap angle increases low-mid range torque (and subsequently, HP) at the cost of top end performance. I think the inherent limitations of the engine design is going to hold you back and you're going to run out of additional power with the electronics pretty quickly. Hopefully you prove me wrong.

oldndumb said:

Wish I could but am not smart enough. What I can offer is my observations of the PCV control panel while running it on my 1100evo. A 13.2 AFR was recommended as a starting point. Once entered in all map fields, I then observed the injector data from both cylinders. The injectors were operating differently. This meant that to maintain the selected AFR the injectors pulse commands were different. Also, using the AutoTune, the trim tables were always different for each cylinder after a ride.

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but on the air cooled bikes the rear cylinder ran a bit hotter than the front due to restricted airflow, even on the unfaired Monsters, Hypers and Supersport CR's. It's pretty common to set belt tension looser on the rear as there was some anecdotal evidence that the extra heat was increasing belt tension and people were seeing more belt wear on the rear than the front. Airflow isn't a limiter on a water cooled bike, and I admit to this being my first water cooled Ducati, but I was looking at the cooling circuit and it seems that cooling is done serially, not in parallel, so the water goes from the pump > radiator > front cylinder > rear cylinder > pump. Is Ducati keeping the rear cylinder warmer because it's what they've always known how to manage all along?

It's common for the plugs to look different front/rear on the air cooled carb'd bikes for this reason, and I suspect this extra heat is also what's being auto-tuned for.

I want to do the the RB EVO, which one do I buy?

@amoslws
I have the Competition Werkes exhaust on my bike now. I feel the difference in fuelling and feel the bike struggles a tiny bit, and at some RPM the vibration is higher.

I was hoping for your advice: Ive been looking around the forum and searching, but I cannot figure out which RB Evo product I need. They don't sell one for the SS (as you are aware I have no doubt), so I don't know which one to use.

I have a local tuning shop, they haven't done a Ducati, but are confident they can tune the bike to run better with the loss of the "box". This exhaust sounds amazing and lost a lot of weight off the bike, I notice the handling difference. That's why I bought it. I was hoping it wouldn't lose much power, but it did, and lost some drivability. Not so much I won't ride it, but it needs help. I'm at 250M above sea level, is there anything I could use as a base map to tune from? I have looked for this info on the forum, but after hours of not finding what I was looking for, I figured I would ask you directly, you seem to be our resident expert on the SS ECUs! I'd appreciate any direction you would be willing to give me, I know there's a few people in the area here planning something similar, I'm going to be the guinea pig though.

Thanks, -Corey

misterclean said:

@amoslws
I have the Competition Werkes exhaust on my bike now. I feel the difference in fuelling and feel the bike struggles a tiny bit, and at some RPM the vibration is higher.

I was hoping for your advice: Ive been looking around the forum and searching, but I cannot figure out which RB Evo product I need. They don't sell one for the SS (as you are aware I have no doubt), so I don't know which one to use.

I have a local tuning shop, they haven't done a Ducati, but are confident they can tune the bike to run better with the loss of the "box". This exhaust sounds amazing and lost a lot of weight off the bike, I notice the handling difference. That's why I bought it. I was hoping it wouldn't lose much power, but it did, and lost some drivability. Not so much I won't ride it, but it needs help. I'm at 250M above sea level, is there anything I could use as a base map to tune from? I have looked for this info on the forum, but after hours of not finding what I was looking for, I figured I would ask you directly, you seem to be our resident expert on the SS ECUs! I'd appreciate any direction you would be willing to give me, I know there's a few people in the area here planning something similar, I'm going to be the guinea pig though.

Thanks, -Corey

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I suggest you go for the generic rapid evo. It can be interchanged between different bikes. If you go for the bike specific then it stays with your SS. With the generic you only have to buy your next bikes harness and then doenload the base map.
I now have the wide band lambda sensors flanges welded onto the pipes, with that you can plug in the "my tuning" add-on and set your base map to the optimal AFR then let your narrow band sensors do the fine tuning as you ride at different elevations.

You will need to buy the monster 821 harness with the rapid evo.

You should get around 10% improvement at mid range rpm. Mid range is where most of us use the extra power and torque.

Ok, if you choose the rapid race you can have a bit more functionality for typical track racing. For me the rapid evo meets my needs for simply tuning and smoothing out the bike, with a bit extra oomph.

Sorry I re-read your post to see if answered everything. My maps are for the akra race system and won't be optimal for the CW because you might get higher back pressure which would normally result in higher torque gain. Your crew will need to weld some wide band flanges on and use "my tuning" to get the best from the exhaust. If you cannot afford the flanges thrn let them build you a map. Also if you have the patience, rapid evo can build its own map through its auto adaptivity function but it takes you some effort to go through the rev ranges for around 200km's.

I reckon you get the tuner to build you a base map on the dyno. It will take a day to do it properly.