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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So here it is.
Multiple dyno runs, which put the sh!ts up me when I see the bike revving like that.
Essentially there is no dramatic improvement in the max HP or torque but both are now spread to where I can best use them. 8nm improvement in the mid range and 77% of the available torque at 3500rpm, and 95% of the available torque at 4500rpm. Torque begins to drop off slowly and gradually from its maximum at around 7500rpm. So my torque now sits across my mid range rpm where I will use it best. The rapid bike will continue autoadapt the mapping line with the maximum HP.
The bike is now running a lot better on the low rpm range and runs enriched up to 20% throttle position and then leans out the air/fuel ratio, that makes pulling away much easier and less stressful when it comes to stalling in traffic. Each cylinder has its own mapping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
@oldndumb @spinkick
@Triple S

Stock exhaust in thinner lines, green is torque, red is HP. Bold lines are akra with rapid evo. It purrs nicely now with plenty (un-rich) bottom end and middle range. Lean gives HP, enrichment gives torque. Lean also makes engine heat but it has never gone over 93 deg C in city traffic. Highway riding at 100mph is still 70 deg C, same as stock.
 

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@oldndumb @spinkick
@Triple S

Stock exhaust in thinner lines, green is torque, red is HP. Bold lines are akra with rapid evo. It purrs nicely now with plenty (un-rich) bottom end and middle range. Lean gives HP, enrichment gives torque. Lean also makes engine heat but it has never gone over 93 deg C in city traffic. Highway riding at 100mph is still 70 deg C, same as stock.
The high torque at 2K is a nice jump. Otherwise its pretty close, even for power. How does it do at idling? Does it still feel like it might stall causing you to play with the clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The high torque at 2K is a nice jump. Otherwise its pretty close, even for power. How does it do at idling? Does it still feel like it might stall causing you to play with the clutch?
Idles at 1200-1500 tops. Clutch was never an issue but there is lesser requirement for slipping it when winding open the throttle gently at pull off. Nice throttle response all round, no bluuuur and only blaaahhhh.

Unfortunately its not an easy task creating HP. There's 100% torque improvement at pull off and there's a 5% hp and 9% torque improvement at mid range and that's inline with what I wanted. To be honest anything over 8500rpm makes my eyeballs rattle in their sockets with the SS so top end is useless to me. Chances of me travelling at 150mph through the city are very slim. Next step is to address the AFR now that the trim maps are getting their, now time to play with 12.0 to 14.9 AFR.
Another important point is that the fuel consumption is less, that's good for the prices here.
 

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Idles at 1200-1500 tops. Clutch was never an issue but there is lesser requirement for slipping it when winding open the throttle gently at pull off. Nice throttle response all round, no bluuuur and only blaaahhhh.

Unfortunately its not an easy task creating HP. There's 100% torque improvement at pull off and there's a 5% hp and 9% torque improvement at mid range and that's inline with what I wanted. To be honest anything over 8500rpm makes my eyeballs rattle in their sockets with the SS so top end is useless to me. Chances of me travelling at 150mph through the city are very slim. Next step is to address the AFR now that the trim maps are getting their, now time to play with 12.0 to 14.9 AFR.
Another important point is that the fuel consumption is less, that's good for the prices here.

Do you do yourself the complete mapping with rapid bike software or your local installer do that ?


Like you i want more torque , in my case i'm waiting for a new low complete exhaust (with no decat).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you do yourself the complete mapping with rapid bike software or your local installer do that ?


Like you i want more torque , in my case i'm waiting for a new low complete exhaust (with no decat).
I do not have the expensive equipment for the analysis, so I work in my advisory capacity. With that said I also make my own adjustments with the software. USB plugs into my laptop and I tweak the trim maps for fuel consumption and temperature. The dealer has the dyno, so after my tweaks I take it to them for an analysis. Since this is a new bike Dimsport in Italy are also involved to analyse the algorithm to ensure no damage occurs. Eventually my configuration will be the base map for all SS using the rapid bike evo. With that each rider is in the different environment so rapid evo 's autoadaptivity will trim the maps to suit their climate and altitude etcetera.
 

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I do not have the expensive equipment for the analysis, so I work in my advisory capacity. With that said I also make my own adjustments with the software. USB plugs into my laptop and I tweak the trim maps for fuel consumption and temperature. The dealer has the dyno, so after my tweaks I take it to them for an analysis. Since this is a new bike Dimsport in Italy are also involved to analyse the algorithm to ensure no damage occurs. Eventually my configuration will be the base map for all SS using the rapid bike evo. With that each rider is in the different environment so rapid evo 's autoadaptivity will trim the maps to suit their climate and altitude etcetera.

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledges.

Another question , where do you fit the rapid bike box ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledges.

Another question , where do you fit the rapid bike box ?
It uses the monster 821 harness and each sensor is connected in series to the rapid bike ecu. Mine sits on the frame with cable ties, behind the fairing, unfortunately there is no other space to put it and it is a little bit visible.
 

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In which gear do you run the dyno ? is it 5th ?
*noob question*
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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So after months of discussion and expensive international phone calls, finally the owners of the rapid bike ecu product "Dimsport" have managed to crack the SS OEM ECU " Continental M3D"

http://www.dimsport.it/ftpsito/pdf/New Trasdata - ECU application list.pdf

Race New Trasdata | DIMSPORT - ENGINE CALIBRATION SPECIALISTS

Man it comes at the right time of the year too "Xmas all over again"
I knew given enough time some clever person would crack the ecu coding, some very gifted people out there.
What results do you expect with the cracked mapping?
 

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Where are the dyno charts from this thread? Seems like they are referenced but I see no images?
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I knew given enough time some clever person would crack the ecu coding, some very gifted people out there.
What results do you expect with the cracked mapping?
What I want to understand is my issue that I am unable to change the performance curve at 6000rpm. I can increase the performance via the AFR trims but on every attempt it drops off at 6000rpm then picks up again at 6250rpm. My issue is that 6000rpm in 6th gear is my cruising revs and I want to be able to adjust the fuel trim and get some gains from it. As mentioned previously I have done 48 dyno runs following multiple fuel trim attempts and no change. So hopefully I can solve that issue of mine. The performance is ok but I don't like to be beaten...probably an ideal aspergers candidate :wink2:.
 

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So after months of discussion and expensive international phone calls, finally the owners of the rapid bike ecu product "Dimsport" have managed to crack the SS OEM ECU " Continental M3D"

http://www.dimsport.it/ftpsito/pdf/New Trasdata - ECU application list.pdf

Race New Trasdata | DIMSPORT - ENGINE CALIBRATION SPECIALISTS

Man it comes at the right time of the year too "Xmas all over again"
Onteresting....it is at the right time.

This and the new Termi exhaust would be a nice combo
 

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amoslws, I snipped this from your post above.

The bike is now running a lot better on the low rpm range and runs enriched up to 20% throttle position and then leans out the air/fuel ratio, that makes pulling away much easier and less stressful when it comes to stalling in traffic.
Couldn't the same intention be achieved by simply dropping a tooth at the C/S sprocket or, conversely, adding a couple to the rear sprocket?
 
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