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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone out there aware of where I get exact instructions on removing the fairings? I've looked but can't find anything and I got stalled when I tried to get the right one off. I need to take the right off in a couple weeks. ????
 

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Anyone out there aware of where I get exact instructions on removing the fairings? I've looked but can't find anything and I got stalled when I tried to get the right one off. I need to take the right off in a couple weeks. ????
This video is great:

Also here:
But he doesn’t stress how difficult that “locating pin” in the lower middle of the fairing can be to get out of the rubber mount. The first time I removed mine I got all the screws out and could not get the damn fairing off. I was positive it was bolted in at that point because no matter what I tried it did not move. I pulled, pried, swore, guessed, tried taking more parts off to get to it and finally figured the hell with it I’m going to support it as best as I can and yank the damn thing free, if it breaks it breaks and it finally came out.

I put a little petroleum jelly on both sides of the fairings on the pin and rubber plug and it slips in and out perfectly now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This video is great:



But he doesn’t stress how difficult that “locating pin” in the lower middle of the fairing can be to get out of the rubber mount. The first time I removed mine I got all the screws out and could not get the damn fairing off. I was positive it was bolted in at that point because no matter what I tried it did not move. I pulled, pried, swore, guessed, tried taking more parts off to get to it and finally figured the hell with it I’m going to support it as best as I can and yank the damn thing free, if it breaks it breaks and it finally came out.

I put a little petroleum jelly on both sides of the fairings on the pin and rubber plug and it slips in and out perfectly now.
OK
First off, I watched that video before I attempted to take the right side off. My experience was the same as Berber's. I removed all the screws and marked them so as not to get them confused but could not get the fairing off. Seemed bolted in the middle and I could not figure out how to remove it. Is it a matter of simply prying it off? I was so afraid of breaking the fairing.
 

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Seemed bolted in the middle and I could not figure out how to remove it. Is it a matter of simply prying it off? I was so afraid of breaking the fairing.
Yup, that is where I had the issue as well. Reach around the area and try to support the bodywork as best as you can and pull it out. Where you feel it's stuck is where there is a peg on the bodywork that goes into a rubber o-ring on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yup, that is where I had the issue as well. Reach around the area and try to support the bodywork as best as you can and pull it out. Where you feel it's stuck is where there is a peg on the bodywork that goes into a rubber o-ring on the bike.
OK thanks,
Again, I was afraid to give it any more force but now that I know . The rest is pretty straight forward. Have taken fairings off other bikes many times. They're always finicky. I will try it soon when it's time to do the work. I really enjoy getting it done on my own.
Cheers
 

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OK
First off, I watched that video before I attempted to take the right side off. My experience was the same as Berber's. I removed all the screws and marked them so as not to get them confused but could not get the fairing off. Seemed bolted in the middle and I could not figure out how to remove it. Is it a matter of simply prying it off? I was so afraid of breaking the fairing.
If you look into the fairing you can see where it is. I put my hands through the vent slot in the fairing and pull it from there. I agree with the petroleum jelly on the rubber and the peg.

From my own experiences of removing the fairings several times, the rubber grommets on the pegs located in the headlamp split despite the use of petroleum jelly; I ordered several spares from a parts provider.

Keep a note of which fasteners come from where, as there are different types/lengths.

There are 4 strips of rubber that fit onto the radiator panel; two either side - Item 28 in the image below. It is easy for these to drop out during removal and assembly. You can see where they fit as there is a small recess on the radiator panel where they sit.

42046



When reassembling the fairing panels, start from the top and work down and only locate each fastner enough to hold them in place, I find it easier to not put the the lower fasteners immediately adjacent to the rear brake pedal and gear lever in, as the two screws on the underside of the fairing are a bugger to line up. By leaving the other fasteners lose and the ones by the gear lever and brake pedal out, it leaves enough free play to align the fasteners with holes on the underside of the fairing. Once in you can fit the ones by the gear lever and brake pedal and then tighten all the other ones up.

Enjoy!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you look into the fairing you can see where it is. I put my hands through the vent slot in the fairing and pull it from there. I agree with the petroleum jelly on the rubber and the peg.

From my own experiences of removing the fairings several times, the rubber grommets on the pegs located in the headlamp split despite the use of petroleum jelly; I ordered several spares from a parts provider.

Keep a note of which fasteners come from where, as there are different types/lengths.

There are 4 strips of rubber that fit onto the radiator panel; two either side - Item 28 in the image below. It is easy for these to drop out during removal and assembly. You can see where they fit as there is a small recess on the radiator panel where they sit.

View attachment 42046


When reassembling the fairing panels, start from the top and work down and only locate each fastner enough to hold them in place, I find it easier to not put the the lower fasteners immediately adjacent to the rear brake pedal and gear lever in, as the two screws on the underside of the fairing are a bugger to line up. By leaving the other fasteners lose and the ones by the gear lever and brake pedal out, it leaves enough free play to align the fasteners with holes on the underside of the fairing. Once in you can fit the ones by the gear lever and brake pedal and then tighten all the other ones up.

Enjoy!
Thanks for this. I learned most of this on my attempt to remove the right panel. You're right, the bottom screws are a pig to align, especially now because I have a carbon bellypan that has to be aligned with the back bottom screw as well. You're also right about the rubber grommets on the rad. I'm thinking of putting a little adhesive on them so they stay in place. They do drop out easily and are hard to hold in place on reassembly. Thanks again, Cheers
 

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I'm curious to know if there is a way to remove the bottom half of the fairing? This would be great to know to get to the electrical system and battery and preclude taking off the entire left side fairing.

I mention this after I was glancing through the owner's manual and mention was made about removing the lower fairing to get access the spare fuse.
 

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@LowRyter In the 3 years I owned the 939, I couldn't see a way of doing this. You can loosen it but not enough to get access to the battery.

I know you have a939 John, but the 950 fairings are in 2 parts: an upper and lower section, but they have to be removed as one complete piece as to separate them the fixings joining them together are on the inside of the faring. I was hoping before I bought the 950 that Ducati would have made it so you could just remove the lower section - but then they wouldn't be able to charge you as much for labour charges during a service :cautious:
 

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The 939 fairing is also two pieces, upper and lower. Like you mentioned for the 950, I can't find away to remove it separately.

This makes me wonder if the fairings could be modified with dzus fasteners connecting the upper and lower fairing? Disconnect the bottom half with the existing fastener, and disconnect the fairing halves with modified fasteners.
 

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Yes you are certainly right John. What I was trying to say is the 950 has more of a horizontal join between the fairings. Your dzus idea is 'doable' but would involve drilling holes in the fairing and incorporating the back fixing part of dzus to the fairing somehow - not an issue in itself. Even doing this modification (with the 950) I'm not sure that by removing the lower part of the fairing would provide enough clear access to the battery.
 

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I was thinking the same. Perhaps a bonded aluminum strip for the backing plate? OTOH, I never considered that there still might not be access to the battery. According to the owners manual, there is access to the relay and spare fuse. Unfortunately, where the manual says to remove the lower fairing for access, it's a can't do. Actually on reread it's "left half fairing" which I interpreted ......ah never mind. :confused:

Still, this is a subject that needs to be run to ground.
 

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Greetings: As a prospective owner I've been avidly going through the forum, the downloaded owner's manual, etc. I note that the 17-20 model year manual includes instructions for removing the fairing but that the 950 manual does not. Tripplesapper: As one who has knowledge of both models, is the procedure the same? Can one use the instructions in the 939 manual?

As a follow on question, I see from a Youtube video that for the 939 it appears that it's possible to do an oil change without removing any fairing. (Well done, Ducati!) Alas, looking at the 950 fairing makes me think them days is gone and the right side fairing must come off. Is this so?
 

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@Stooie The fixing points are near identical, so you can use the 939 instructions - there is an extra fixing point on the 950 to the rear of each fairing. Take it easy around the headlight as these are push fit into a rubber grommet.

No chance of an oil change on the 950 without removing the right fairing as it extends more under the bike than the 939
 

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Removing the fairing isn't a big issue. It allows you to check what's going on behind it and to give things a clean.
 

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@Stooie The fixing points are near identical, so you can use the 939 instructions - there is an extra fixing point on the 950 to the rear of each fairing. Take it easy around the headlight as these are push fit into a rubber grommet.

No chance of an oil change on the 950 without removing the right fairing as it extends more under the bike than the 939


 
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