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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done a search and have seen responses all over the map, so I'm starting a new thread. I've got a 2020 SSS with about 1500 miles on it so far, and can't get the sag number in the forks that I'm looking for. I'm 185 in street clothes, and 200 in full track day kit. I'm getting ready to do the Yamaha Champions ChampDay at NJMP, and will be going at a novice pace. Still want to get it as good as I can for now.

So far the best I can do is:
14 turns in on preload, Comp is 14 out from hard, and Reb is 4
Free sag shows 16mm, with rider sag at 43
I believe fork bottom out is 10mm up from fork bottom, and I'm using all but 20mm of travel (including the bottom out 10mm)

I'm still playing with the compression to get the control/feel I'm looking for under braking, but I'm close.

I believe with the gap between free sag and rider sag, that indicates my springs are too soft. Especially considering I've got about all the available preload dialed into it. Has anyone here (similar in weight) been in the same boat and gone from the stock .8 springs to .9? Would love to know how that worked out, and how much preload you are using now to get desired sag numbers.
 

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Go to .9s, or better yet call Ohlins NA and ask for Jerry, he'll be happy to talk to you and get you what you need. Maybe even just swapping 1 to a .9 will get you what you need (average of .85)

I'm 240lbs and running 9.5's, they work great for my weight. I probably should be 1.0 but I don't like the front to be too harsh, 1.0's can be.
 

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You definitely need springs. Either 0.90s or 0.95s, if you plan on doing much track work go with the 0.95s, if not the 0.90s may be enough.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You definitely need springs. Either 0.90s or 0.95s, if you plan on doing much track work go with the 0.95s, if not the 0.90s may be enough.
Exactly why I was thinking .90. I'll be doing a few track days, but probably in the novice group. I just enjoy track riding, but don't need to be the fastest guy there. Think I should be ok for now on the stock setup. I will likely have to bump up compression to control how much travel I'm using. It's something I'll be keeping my eye on at the ChampDay.
 

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Exactly why I was thinking .90. I'll be doing a few track days, but probably in the novice group. I just enjoy track riding, but don't need to be the fastest guy there. Think I should be ok for now on the stock setup. I will likely have to bump up compression to control how much travel I'm using. It's something I'll be keeping my eye on at the ChampDay.
Keep in mind that you do want to use almost all the travel. On the track, normally* "perfect" is very lightly bottoming once per lap.

*Some tracks have a certain spot that loads things very heavily, so you accept the bottoming there so that it's not too stiff everywhere else. For example, at Texas World coming off the high line into turn one. The transition from the banking to infield is really abrupt, so unless you have radically stiff springs in you're going to bottom.
 
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That's a BIG track Rich. I'd be afraid to ride it. Last time I was there, Benny Parsons was the winner and some punk with the local sheriff made me pour out my beer because it wasn't noon. Only me.
 

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That's a BIG track Rich. I'd be afraid to ride it. Last time I was there, Benny Parsons was the winner and some punk with the local sheriff made me pour out my beer because it wasn't noon. Only me.
It is, but it's so wide and so open that it doesn't really feel that fast.

Pro tip on the beer, discretely pour it into a soft drink cup. :)

And TWS feels big...until you've been to Daytona. :)
That place is huge. The first year I raced there they had us coming in through a gate that led across the back straight, and just looking up and around at everything, the scale and size of the place was a little intimidating. That was '01 and we'd raced at TWS 7 times that year, so I was very used to a big track. But Daytona was another level.
 

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It is, but it's so wide and so open that it doesn't really feel that fast.

Pro tip on the beer, discretely pour it into a soft drink cup. :)

And TWS feels big...until you've been to Daytona. :)
That place is huge. The first year I raced there they had us coming in through a gate that led across the back straight, and just looking up and around at everything, the scale and size of the place was a little intimidating. That was '01 and we'd raced at TWS 7 times that year, so I was very used to a big track. But Daytona was another level.
Daytona is "big" until you go to Indy. All from a spectators perspective. (BTW- Benny won in Texas like in 1980.)
 

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Daytona is "big" until you go to Indy. All from a spectators perspective. (BTW- Benny won in Texas like in 1980.)
Haven't been to Indy, so no personal reference there.
I vaguely remember the Benny Parsons name, so figured it was a long time ago. According to friends who raced there back then the track was different, what is now* the turn 12-15 section wasn't there, you came out of 11 and went straight up onto the banking.

*Just looked at a satellite photo, I guess the track finally got sold to developers. :( Last time I raced there was 2010, but they did track days at least until not too long ago.

 

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Haven't been to Indy, so no personal reference there.
I vaguely remember the Benny Parsons name, so figured it was a long time ago. According to friends who raced there back then the track was different, what is now* the turn 12-15 section wasn't there, you came out of 11 and went straight up onto the banking.

*Just looked at a satellite photo, I guess the track finally got sold to developers. :( Last time I raced there was 2010, but they did track days at least until not too long ago.

Actually I did take a lap around the Indy MotoGP layout. They had a free pace lap one afternoon. I think everyone with a motorcycle in the entire state was there. Certainly some weren't even going to the GP. With so many, there was no way to "pace" the participants. I hit the "Yard of Bricks" doing about 80 on my Guzzi California.
 

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Actually I did take a lap around the Indy MotoGP layout. They had a free pace lap one afternoon. I think everyone with a motorcycle in the entire state was there. Certainly some weren't even going to the GP. With so many, there was no way to "pace" the participants. I hit the "Yard of Bricks" doing about 80 on my Guzzi California.
That would have been cool, glad you got that chance. (y)
 
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I've done a search and have seen responses all over the map, so I'm starting a new thread. I've got a 2020 SSS with about 1500 miles on it so far, and can't get the sag number in the forks that I'm looking for. I'm 185 in street clothes, and 200 in full track day kit. I'm getting ready to do the Yamaha Champions ChampDay at NJMP, and will be going at a novice pace. Still want to get it as good as I can for now.

So far the best I can do is:
14 turns in on preload, Comp is 14 out from hard, and Reb is 4
Free sag shows 16mm, with rider sag at 43
I believe fork bottom out is 10mm up from fork bottom, and I'm using all but 20mm of travel (including the bottom out 10mm)

I'm still playing with the compression to get the control/feel I'm looking for under braking, but I'm close.

I believe with the gap between free sag and rider sag, that indicates my springs are too soft. Especially considering I've got about all the available preload dialed into it. Has anyone here (similar in weight) been in the same boat and gone from the stock .8 springs to .9? Would love to know how that worked out, and how much preload you are using now to get desired sag numbers.
There are a few threads on here about changing the front springs on Ohlins equipped bikes.

Depending on your height and how you sit on the bike you generally need a stiffer front as you approach 100kgs. Some riders can get the appropriate sag but I couldn't on mine so upped the front springs after advice from Dave Moss. I'm now 3 turns in from fully unwound to give 40 mm sag. Compression is 11 out, and rebound 6. Its been 10,000 km since my last service, I' m planning to check damping and I am expecting to add a click or two. I've got about 20mm of free sag.

There is more travel than 10mm up from bottom. I wouldn't worry too much about free sag, it always seems excessive in the forks, but make sure you have some on the rear. I have about 10mm with 40mm rider sag.

I was running about 32mm sag, front and rear, but was dragging stuff on the road. Lifting the extra 1/4" or so has fixed that. I do, however, live in the Adelaide Hills, which is cornering Nirvana.

I can recommend getting a setup from someone like Dave Moss. Several on this forum have used his remote service with good results. He is very familiar with the SupoerSport, albeit the 939. I don't think there are any suspension changes between the 939 and 950.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There are a few threads on here about changing the front springs on Ohlins equipped bikes.

Depending on your height and how you sit on the bike you generally need a stiffer front as you approach 100kgs. Some riders can get the appropriate sag but I couldn't on mine so upped the front springs after advice from Dave Moss. I'm now 3 turns in from fully unwound to give 40 mm sag. Compression is 11 out, and rebound 6. Its been 10,000 km since my last service, I' m planning to check damping and I am expecting to add a click or two. I've got about 20mm of free sag.

There is more travel than 10mm up from bottom. I wouldn't worry too much about free sag, it always seems excessive in the forks, but make sure you have some on the rear. I have about 10mm with 40mm rider sag.

I was running about 32mm sag, front and rear, but was dragging stuff on the road. Lifting the extra 1/4" or so has fixed that. I do, however, live in the Adelaide Hills, which is cornering Nirvana.

I can recommend getting a setup from someone like Dave Moss. Several on this forum have used his remote service with good results. He is very familiar with the SupoerSport, albeit the 939. I don't think there are any suspension changes between the 939 and 950.
Ed,
Thanks and I'm a Dave Moss subscriber. I've watched a ton of his content (including the SSS test ride he did), and I'm now trying to work this out for myself. When I service the forks, I'll change the springs. Thinking .90 will be what I need to get in the range like what you've got. Maybe a couple turns of preload to get to 35-40mm in the front. Right now I can't get better than 43mm in street gear. Rear I'm at 32 with about 8-10mm of free sag. So I can pick the back of the bike up a bit. Just enough to know I'm not topping it out.

The good thing for now is that I have the bike balanced. When I push on the whole bike, it goes down and up in sync
front and back. Took a while to get the technique right to do that. Dave makes it look easy.

When I go to NJMP next month for YCRS, I'll use that to validate my setup. With the higher speeds on track, I should be able to use the tires as an added data point.
 

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...When I push on the whole bike, it goes down and up in sync front and back...
I find the trick is to push down on the suspension and let it come up on its own. If you bounce the suspension you will not get an accurate result.

Yes, when set properly the Supersport S (I can't talk to the Marzocchi/ Sachs version, although it should be capable) gives a remarkably controlled ride. My wife has a ZX14R and even after setting the suspension it does get upset on irregular bumps, such as a poorly maintained railway crossing. The SSS, however, hardly suffers a deflection. She has to slow down, I just keep riding.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I find the trick is to push down on the suspension and let it come up on its own. If you bounce the suspension you will not get an accurate result.

Yes, when set properly the Supersport S (I can't talk to the Marzocchi/ Sachs version, although it should be capable) gives a remarkably controlled ride. My wife has a ZX14R and even after setting the suspension it does get upset on irregular bumps, such as a poorly maintained railway crossing. The SSS, however, hardly suffers a deflection. She has to slow down, I just keep riding.
There is a technique to getting the push right for sure. You can run the front rebound from full out to full in and see no difference if you bounce it. Getting an even push on the whole bike like Dave Moss does takes a bit to get right also.
 

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I've done a search and have seen responses all over the map, so I'm starting a new thread. I've got a 2020 SSS with about 1500 miles on it so far, and can't get the sag number in the forks that I'm looking for. I'm 185 in street clothes, and 200 in full track day kit. I'm getting ready to do the Yamaha Champions ChampDay at NJMP, and will be going at a novice pace. Still want to get it as good as I can for now.

So far the best I can do is:
14 turns in on preload, Comp is 14 out from hard, and Reb is 4
Free sag shows 16mm, with rider sag at 43
I believe fork bottom out is 10mm up from fork bottom, and I'm using all but 20mm of travel (including the bottom out 10mm)

I'm still playing with the compression to get the control/feel I'm looking for under braking, but I'm close.

I believe with the gap between free sag and rider sag, that indicates my springs are too soft. Especially considering I've got about all the available preload dialed into it. Has anyone here (similar in weight) been in the same boat and gone from the stock .8 springs to .9? Would love to know how that worked out, and how much preload you are using now to get desired sag numbers.
For track you'll probably want to go to 10's. For general riding you might suit 9's or 9,5's. Depends on your riding style.
You can go unequal aswell. I was getting similar measurements as you and the 9,5's give me that little bit of reassurance that I won't bottom out but I find I can set the suspension better and it has improved my general rides too. A win all round.
 

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Yeah springs is what I meant. But is that necessary? What if I screw in the compression till 12 or 10?
You'll make things worse. Damping and springs serve very different purposes. Complementary, but different. You can't substitute one for the other.
 
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