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Interestingly I've changed to a different brand of 98RON and while still having an issue (haven't got to the dealer yet) it is nowhere near as bad. I'm thinking about 95RON on the next fill to see what happens, I've only noticed it since shifting from 95 to 98. I'm still going to get the updates...
 

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The DOC I belong to here in the ACT, had a thread in our forums related to which fuel to use in an 851. Some had mentioned that 98 was not good for their bikes (new or old) for a range of reasons including the additives in the 98. They suggested only using 95 or 91 at a pinch and no E10. Hope this helps.
 

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Contrary to popular conception, low octane fuel is more easily ignited than a high octane fuel. I know this from the days when I used to smoke, 30 odd years ago. I used a Zippo lighter and when it ran dry I would sometimes fill it up with petrol from the bike. It worked great with the low octane 2 star we had in the late 70's but took a lot of flicking if it was filled with higher octane 4 star and was almost unlightable with 5 star (101 octane UK rating).
The only reason for a higher octane fuel is to prevent detonation.
Agreed 100%. Higher octane has a higher resistance to detonation. Since I have increased the compression ratio to 13.5 I now need to put a higher octane in the tank to prevent pinging or detonation before spark as the piston compresses the mixture. So if you have a spark problem try a lower octane. The octane value is merely a measurement of the resistance to ignite and nothing to do with power. Some will find that hard to accept bit it is fact.
 

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Interestingly I've changed to a different brand of 98RON and while still having an issue (haven't got to the dealer yet) it is nowhere near as bad. I'm thinking about 95RON on the next fill to see what happens, I've only noticed it since shifting from 95 to 98. I'm still going to get the updates...
Couple of fills now with 95RON and the starting issue has gone away.

I'm still going to get the reflash, although I'll find out if they change anything if I can. Was going to get it done this week but I had major car issues.
 
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The planets aligned and I had the bike plugged into the diagnostic system, turns out they put the latest updates in during my first service in February.

So, I have the current software. After a brief discussion with the service manager the decision is 95 RON. If I fill up at a servo with no 95 go for 91 instead of 98.

Interestingly he said there is a major software upgrade pending, but they cannot donload it. Yet. Ducati Australia have been unable to tell him anything. So, if anyone has a service in the near future it will be interesting to hear if there any noticable chnages. I’m wondering about the DQS issues some have reported...
 
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Interestingly he said there is a major software upgrade pending, but they cannot donload it. Yet. Ducati Australia have been unable to tell him anything. So, if anyone has a service in the near future it will be interesting to hear if there any noticable chnages. I’m wondering about the DQS issues some have reported...
Oooooo, very interested in this. Wonder what all it entails? Maybe some special coding to reduce mirror shake?

>:)
 

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The planets aligned and I had the bike plugged into the diagnostic system, turns out they put the latest updates in during my first service in February.

So, I have the current software. After a brief discussion with the service manager the decision is 95 RON. If I fill up at a servo with no 95 go for 91 instead of 98.

Interestingly he said there is a major software upgrade pending, but they cannot donload it. Yet. Ducati Australia have been unable to tell him anything. So, if anyone has a service in the near future it will be interesting to hear if there any noticable chnages. I’m wondering about the DQS issues some have reported...
Watching with interest. Faster flame path of 91 over 98 obviously better on start up although fortunately my local servo has 95 and no issues. Mmmmm software upgrade?!
 

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Reviving this thread.
Does anyone know the manufacturer and specs on the fuel pump. Has anyone put a higher pressure pump in. Many have complained about the gauge and pump. Has anyone taken it apart to see the pump.
 

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No idea of the pump manufacturer, maybe Bosch, Facet or Walbro, but the pressure is set by the regulator, usually 3 bar on Ducatis. A higher pressure will allow more fuel to the engine unless the pump can't flow enough, which I think is unlikely.
 

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Sorry to revive again...but...

As many may know here I have owned not one but two SS939S's. My 2017 had absolutely no cold starting issues what so ever in the 20 months and 10,000km I owned it. My new 2018 had no issue's for first month or so but then I noticed whenever starting it first thing after sitting for a few days it was sluggish to catch and stay running. It would stall and require second crank to stay running but still seemed to struggle as it warmed up. Warm starts afterwards it would fire right up.


Fast-forward a month and cooler weather has made the issue even worse. It took three times for engine to stay running when starting in the morning in 8 celcius temp. I use nothing but Shell V-power 93 in her and in my previous SSS. First service has been done and the problem was noticed before that and continues after. I guess I should have asked them to check but after 1hr freeway ride to dealer it would not show issue and it had only done it once or twice at that point. After reading all 8 pages of this thread I still really don't see a definitive solution to OP issue? It's like the ECU/FI does not properly account for colder temps and richen fuel mixture at startup? I had old Suzuki in 80's that was just like this, among a host of other issues as well, and after spending a ton of money and parts on it I swore I'd never own another Suz. To this day I never have or will. I don't want this Duc to be unreliable in cooler temps and give me grief. Any suggestions would be welcome... I guess I could take it to dealer and leave it with them for a day or two to try a cold start? But separation anxiety comes quickly for me... lol


Don
 
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The engine temperature sensor should cause the ECU to richen the mixture for cold starts. It could be faulty.
Usually the throttle bodies have air bypass screws which allow the throttle body balance and CO to be set at idle. I have come across a couple of instances where these have been set incorrectly from the factory affecting the cold or sometimes not so cold starting. With the more recent ECU and injection system on the Supersport I don't know if it has bypass screws nor how they are set up, but your dealer should.
 

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Sorry to revive again...but...

As many may know here I have owned not one but two SS939S's. My 2017 had absolutely no cold starting issues what so ever in the 20 months and 10,000km I owned it. My new 2018 had no issue's for first month or so but then I noticed whenever starting it first thing after sitting for a few days it was sluggish to catch and stay running. It would stall and require second crank to stay running but still seemed to struggle as it warmed up. Warm starts afterwards it would fire right up.


Fast-forward a month and cooler weather has made the issue even worse. It took three times for engine to stay running when starting in the morning in 8 celcius temp. I use nothing but Shell V-power 93 in her and in my previous SSS. First service has been done and the problem was noticed before that and continues after. I guess I should have asked them to check but after 1hr freeway ride to dealer it would not show issue and it had only done it once or twice at that point. After reading all 8 pages of this thread I still really don't see a definitive solution to OP issue? It's like the ECU/FI does not properly account for colder temps and richen fuel mixture at startup? I had old Suzuki in 80's that was just like this, among a host of other issues as well, and after spending a ton of money and parts on it I swore I'd never own another Suz. To this day I never have or will. I don't want this Duc to be unreliable in cooler temps and give me grief. Any suggestions would be welcome... I guess I could take it to dealer and leave it with them for a day or two to try a cold start? But separation anxiety comes quickly for me... lol


Don
I heard from a reputable Ducati Dealer (I know coming from me that’s hard to believe) that the 2017 model was programmed to start and run on 95 premium fuel but the later model was programmed to run on 98 premium. I always try and use 95 but use 98 if I can’t get it as I just don’t trust 91 (possible miss fire) it does sound that your issues may not be fuel related but have you tried 98 for a few tanks just to discount the theory. ( I have had stutter starts and a stall after 1st start a while back when I was using 98. PS I don’t call these cold starts as the temps at the time we’re not dropping under 16’c over night)
 

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I heard from a reputable Ducati Dealer (I know coming from me that’s hard to believe) that the 2017 model was programmed to start and run on 95 premium fuel but the later model was programmed to run on 98 premium. I always try and use 95 but use 98 if I can’t get it as I just don’t trust 91 (possible miss fire) it does sound that your issues may not be fuel related but have you tried 98 for a few tanks just to discount the theory. ( I have had stutter starts and a stall after 1st start a while back when I was using 98. PS I don’t call these cold starts as the temps at the time we’re not dropping under 16’c over night)

It's seems to me that a higher octane would mean harder to start but that's just my thoughts. I'm wondering if flattening the battery and having the bike relearn stuff would help. Also wondering if it could be the oil pressure sensor. I know the programming on previous models would inhibit the bike from starting until the oil pressure was at a certain point.
 

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It doesn't take a lot cranks on a big V twin to drain the battery. Happened to me on this bike once, started it for a second and it died. It must've fooled the computer and was trying to start dry (another "smell" thing). I just kept cranking and it started to slow down, I got an "oh sh1t" look right when it fired up. We were a long ways from home and I didn't want to yank that cover of (again).
 

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The engine temperature sensor should cause the ECU to richen the mixture for cold starts. It could be faulty.
Usually the throttle bodies have air bypass screws which allow the throttle body balance and CO to be set at idle. I have come across a couple of instances where these have been set incorrectly from the factory affecting the cold or sometimes not so cold starting. With the more recent ECU and injection system on the Supersport I don't know if it has bypass screws nor how they are set up, but your dealer should.
There's a screw on each side of the arm that is driven by the motor. They are essentially stopper screws and are set so the butterflies stop at 180° to close the inlets. When I had my hotstart issue it was suggested to change their setting. I opted to ignore that suggestion and swap over the temp sensor instead, and the problem is solved.
The temp sensor is quite an important piece, more important than merely providing a reading on the dash. If it's faulty the ecu miscalculates the fuel inlet and starting becomes a problem.
 

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Thanks for all the great suggestions guys. As for trying higher octane fuel here in Ontario Canada the most I know of that is available is 94 Sunoco Gold. Most premium's around are 91 or 93 at best. However our 91 rating is equivalent to other countries 95 so I have read anyway?? Apparently our Shell V-power is 99 RON

Maybe I will call my local dealer and see what they say as far as Temp sensor issue or throttle body adjustment's. It is simply is a nagging issue which I never encountered with my 2017 model and it could leave me stranded with dead battery some cool morning...and that would make me a very unhappy camper :crying:
 
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Just noticed this thread (due to resurrection) and a couple of additional observations...

1) I have noted that starting with bike in gear and hand pulling clutch in - slow cranks, takes more effort on the bike's part to start. Starting while in neutral and standing, no problem.

2) The gas conversation cracks me up - guys, how often do you think you get what you are paying for anyhow? The pumps that have one hose and 3 gas types are typically used by cagers and likely filled with the cheap stuff. Since we only put 3-4 gallons of gas into the tank, the first 1-2 gallons are whatever was last sold from that pump! So if you're lucky and noticed who just bought your perfect blend, it's a total crapshoot.

Hopefully these two observations help narrow things down. On my #1 scenario, that happened after bike was on charger for two days - perfect battery condition, weather in the 70-80f range. Should not be happening. But it seems there is a lot of parasitic drain on the engine by having the clutch lever pulled in. Not sure why - as doing that disconnects the tranny.
 
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