I have never really done anything to my bikes in the past, but I would like to start, instead of sending it to the shop. I would like some suggestions on what tools I can buy. Links would be helpful.
Thanks
Thanks
When I initially wrote this post, in the context of maintenance on cheap Japanese bikes, I included a link to a $60 rear stand for those on a budget. AFAIK, there aren't any cheap single-sided swingarm stands. The best alternative for the Supersport might be a set of rear axle sliders similar to these that could then be used with the $60 stand.Rear stand: $210 Pit Bull
Metric Allen wrenches: $11 Bondhus
Metric sockets: $20 for a 3/8-inch drive set
Screwdrivers: $15 for a set of 6
A low-profile oil drain pan: similar to this one; I bought mine at Target or Walmart for $10-15
Oil filter wrench: $12 strap style, $23 plier style, or $10 socket style depending on what works for your bike
Torque wrench: $30 Tekton 3/8-inch drive
A cheap tire pressure gauge: one example, $11
If you want to remove your own wheels, add:
Front stand: $155 Pit Bull, or $60 alternative
Breaker bar: $20 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
Large Sockets: 2 x $10-20/each
Buy these tools and you'll be able to change oil, remove your wheels (so tire swaps are cheaper), lube your chain, rebuild your brake calipers, change fuses, replace brake discs, replace sprockets, etc. Over time you may need to add a few additional tools (brake bleeder, chain breaker, snap ring pliers) to handle special jobs but none of this stuff is terribly expensive.
First of all, stop shopping at Harbor Freight! You can buy tools that are much better for not a whole lot more money. For mechanics tools, I'd look at Craftsman (Sears, Orchard Supply/OSH), Husky (Home Depot), and Kobalt (Lowe's). This stuff isn't Snap-On quality but it's perfectly fine for any home mechanic who isn't an idiot. I think all of these brands still offer lifetime warranties on their hand tools, though I could be wrong about that. I own Craftsman stuff, but that's mostly because I live very close to an OSH.
Your Shopping List
1) 3/8-inch drive, 6-point metric sockets. Get a set that goes from 8mm up to at least 16mm. I like Craftsman's "Easy Read" sockets, but socket sets are all pretty similar. I like 6-point sockets (as opposed to 12-point) because they're less likely to round-off aluminum bolt heads
2) 3/8-inch ratchet handle
3) 3-inch and 6-inch socket extensions. Not an absolute must-have, but owning these can make removing or installing difficult-to-reach fasteners much easier. If you buy a decent socket set you'll end up with everything you need
4) Bondhus metric Allen wrenches. Get the 9-piece set that goes from 1.5mm up to 10mm. There are two options for Allen/hex wrenches: standard end or ball end. Ball-end wrenches can be used at an angle, which is useful for some difficult-to-reach applications. The downside is that they're more likely to round-off the corners of the bolt. I own both types, but use the standard end tools most often
5) Torx wrenches... if your bike needs them. My KTM SuperDuke has Torx-head bolts all over the place, but none of my Japanese bikes ever used them. If your bike has any Torx-head fasteners then you'll need Torx wrenches. There are two options: L-wrenches which look like Allen wrenches or Torx sockets. I use my Torx sockets more than the L-wrenches; nobody seems to make Torx L-wrenches with handles that provide enough leverage to loosen the larger fasteners
6) An adjustable wrench. An ivory tower mechanic would never own one of these... but then they probably have hundreds of dollars invested in 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch drive sockets and ratchets that rarely get used. If you're careful an adjustable wrench can be used to work on bolts and nuts that are too large for your 3/8-inch sockets (ex: the rear axle nut). A 10-inch adjustable wrench is a good general purpose size
7) Screwdrivers. You won't need these often, but it's a good idea to own Philips #0, #1, and #2 as well as 1/8" and 3/16" flat blade screwdrivers. Don't buy a ratcheting screwdriver or one with replaceable bits. The ratcheting ones are all junk and replaceable-bit screwdrivers won't fit into some tight spots as well as a dedicated screwdriver
8) No fucking pliers! If you're tempted to use pliers on a motorcycle, chances are you're desperate and about to **** something up.
9) A dead-blow hammer. Occasionally useful for coaxing an axle into or out of place. Never use a hammer for anything motorcycle-related! This is the one tool you're allowed to purchase from Harbor Freight
10) A 3/8-inch drive torque wrench. I have to admit I don't use a torque wrench too often these days, but as a n00b you should probably own one. Buy a "clicker" type torque wrench rather than a "beam" type. The clicker-type wrenches are much easier to use and they're accurate enough, provided you take care of them (ex: set the torque to 0 before storing). I recently bought a cheap Tekton 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and was really impressed with the quality! If I needed to buy a 3/8-inch drive torque wrench on a budget I'd be tempted to try their 3/8-inch drive model.
11) A small oil drain pan. Many drain pans designed for cars are too tall to fit under a motorcycle. Your bike probably only holds 4-5 quarts of oil, so you don't need a 16- or 20-quart drain pan anyway. Ideally you want something that will catch the oil and store it until you can recycle it. Bonus points if it has a screen to catch the drain bolt. I bought one similar to this locally for around $10 and it works well.
12) An oil filter wrench. There are at least three different options here: a strap wrench, oil filter pliers, and cap wrenches. Strap wrenches seem to require quite a bit of space; they've never really worked on any of the motorcycles I've owned. Cap-style filter wrenches, which are like a big socket you use with your ratchet handle, have worked well for me but there are different sizes for different oil filters; finding a size that fits can be a pain. You could always cross your fingers and buy a huge set but even then there's no guarantee since the sets are generally focused on automotive usage rather than motorcycle usage.
13) Buy other tools as needed. Don't buy a huge tool set that has a ton of crap you'll never use. This stuff should cover the basics. Add other tools when you have projects that require them.
Quality 12 point sockets and box (ring) spanners have been used by mechanics all over the world since Adam was a boy. Specialized impact sockets, are always 6 point. Small size sockets are generally 6 point because of the small tolerances involved. That's 50+ years as a qualified motor mechanic speaking.Regarding 6 or 12 point (hex, bi-hex) sockets, they are designed for different heads, so I wouldn't use the wrong one because you will damage the nut/bolt, especially if it's a high torque.
But that's exactly what you are doing, trying to say your dick is bigger. Even better you are saying you know more than most motor mechanics, and even Snap-on. You haven't answered the very simple question of why all box (ring) spanners are 12 point. You do know that type of spanner? And you haven't answered why Snap-on general service socket sets are 12 point.@John I'm not going into a my di*ks bigger than your contest but, I'm a licensed aircraft engineer of 40 years, you don't get a lot of 12 point bolts in the car industry in the aviation industry you do. 12 point is bi-hex not hex there is a difference. Yes I have used bi-hex Impact sockets, and bi-hex sockets 3/16. Most bolts/nuts in aviation are bi-hex and if you use a hex socket on them you WILL fu*k them up, standard first year apprentice mistake. Use the correct tool for the job, I'm not saying you can't use one over the other but only one is correct.
That's a combination spanner for future reference. The front wheel spindle nut on the SS is hex try using a bi-hex spanner/socket on that, the rear wheel is bi-hex try using a hex spanner/socket on that, after trying you will know the difference. As I said you can use 12 point on hex bolts but you are placing excessive pressure on the points, if you have a tight or seized bolt there is a fair chance you will round it off.But that's exactly what you are doing, trying to say your dick is bigger. Even better you are saying you know more than most motor mechanics, and even Snap-on. You haven't answered the very simple question of why all box (ring) spanners are 12 point. You do know that type of spanner? And you haven't answered why Snap-on general service socket sets are 12 point.
Here's a picture of a common box (ring spanner) that is the backbone of any motor mechanics tool box, according to you it has no place. And snap-on's tool sets full of 12 point sockets and box spanners aren't fit for a 1st year apprentice .... what a load of rubbish.