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You sure? I very clearly see a difference. It’s dealable, but is different, look at the level in relation to the hole at the top. It’s also opposite of what I’ve experienced: shows higher on the stand than when flat on the floor.
Exactly my point. Dealable? Certainly.

Negligible? Absolutely.

Yeah, I figured someone would comment (and I thought it might be you ;)). So is this a negligible difference due to camera angle? Or why does the rearstand make the level appear a little lower when just the opposite was stated in previous comments? Simple, as I said in the first place, it's easy to see that slope from back to front easily within the sightglass.

Anyway, this issue is settled. Pictures don't lie. And BTW, on my driveway, the slope from the rear to the front isn't visible. Remember, I took the photo on a flat garage floor.
 

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Exactly my point. Dealable? Certainly.

Negligible? Absolutely.

Anyway, this issue is settled. Pictures don't lie. And BTW, on my driveway, the slope from the rear to the front isn't visible. Remember, I took the photo on a flat garage floor.
You’re right, it is settled: there is a difference, and the level does show different whether level, on a rear stand or vertical on it’s wheels. might be enough to be the difference between too high, ok and too low. Might not, though, depending on how far it’s “off” level.

Yeah, I figured someone would comment (and I thought it might be you ;)).
Ha, that is funny; whenever anyone mentions the S model or suspension I always kniw you’re going to be the first to comment as well :)
 
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You’re right, it is settled: there is a difference, and the level does show different whether level, on a rear stand or vertical on it’s wheels. might be enough to be the difference between too high, ok and too low. Might not, though, depending on how far it’s “off” level.

Ha, that is funny; whenever anyone mentions the S model or suspension I always kniw you’re going to be the first to comment as well :)
Photo evidence shows there is no practical difference. The issue is solved.
 

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Oil level must be checked with the motorcycle
perfectly upright and the engine cold.
I started reading this thread a bit late, but this caught my eye. I have been using a PDF copy of the manual, so perhaps the print version is different. Does this print version actually say to perform the check with a cold engine? The PDF version, is very specific about it being warmed and then cooled.

PDF says --

To check the oil level correctly, carefully follow the
instructions below.
1) The level must be checked with warm engine, so if
it is not performed after riding for at least 20/30
minutes you will need to warm up the engine.
If, on the other hand, the engine is cold, start it and
let it warm up until the cooler fans start two
consecutive times (the engine oil must be perfectly
warm to flow along the lines and reach the engine
sump).
During this warming up phase, the bike can be left on
the side stand.
2) Turn off the engine and wait 10\15 minutes to
allow the oil to flow completely inside the sump.
3) Position the bike with both wheels on a flat ground
and in straight position.
4) Then, check the engine oil through the sight glass.
5) If the oil level is below the middle line between the
MIN and MAX marks, add oil
 

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Ok, I actually had a moment to sort this "how to check the oil level accurately" controversy. Bottomline the rear stand is fine for it.

Standing the bike up manually


Rear stand on level floor




We can plainly see it makes no difference.

Also, no apparent oil consumption in 1300 miles.
My stand doesn't give those results. It leans a bit, so I have to balance the bike on the floor. With your stand's results, I'd feel fine either way.
 

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My stand doesn't give those results. It leans a bit, so I have to balance the bike on the floor. With your stand's results, I'd feel fine either way.
Agree, if I had a crooked stand I wouldn't check the oil. I assume yours must tilt away from the sight glass so it won't slide off ? Perhaps that a safety precaution?
 

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I started reading this thread a bit late, but this caught my eye. I have been using a PDF copy of the manual, so perhaps the print version is different. Does this print version actually say to perform the check with a cold engine? The PDF version, is very specific about it being warmed and then cooled.

PDF says --

To check the oil level correctly, carefully follow the
instructions below.
1) The level must be checked with warm engine, so if
it is not performed after riding for at least 20/30
minutes you will need to warm up the engine.
If, on the other hand, the engine is cold, start it and
let it warm up until the cooler fans start two
consecutive times (the engine oil must be perfectly
warm to flow along the lines and reach the engine
sump).
During this warming up phase, the bike can be left on
the side stand.
2) Turn off the engine and wait 10\15 minutes to
allow the oil to flow completely inside the sump.
3) Position the bike with both wheels on a flat ground
and in straight position.
4) Then, check the engine oil through the sight glass.
5) If the oil level is below the middle line between the
MIN and MAX marks, add oil
copied:

Check engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1)
on the clutch cover.
Oil level must be checked with the motorcycle
perfectly upright and the engine cold.
yada yada yada



That's from both of my copies of the book on my computer. I'm not sure why it would matter if the bike was hot or cold, so long as the bike was settled so that oil had a chance to drain to the bottom. (Now we'll see who will disagree with that.)

I must admit that stuff about starting the engine twice until the fans are running and letting it set for 20 minutes sounds like it was written by "Mad" magazine. You didn't download that from the "Onion"? (just joking)
 

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FYI... engine oil actually will slightly expand and contract hot vs cold...1 to 2 mm or so in the sight glass...
 

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FYI... engine oil actually will slightly expand and contract hot vs cold...1 to 2 mm or so in the sight glass...
Sorry Ed, you have to pick sides here. You can't be in the middle of the road.

Hot or cold? Rear stand or not? Mad Magazine or The Onion?

You can run but you can't hide. o_O
 

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I must admit that stuff about starting the engine twice until the fans are running and letting it set for 20 minutes sounds like it was written by "Mad" magazine. You didn't download that from the "Onion"? (just joking)
Well, you made me check my facts. Turns out the 2017 PDF manual from Ducati has the check done cold. 2018+ have the warm up procedure. Now we have one more thing to debate - warm or cold? :p
 

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Well, you made me check my facts. Turns out the 2017 PDF manual from Ducati has the check done cold. 2018+ have the warm up procedure. Now we have one more thing to debate - warm or cold? :p
This is hilarious.
 

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Can't remember. Sh1t, now I gotta check. hold on....
Actually it leans to the side opposite the stand. It's a pitbull stand, too. The stand doesn't look bent. I think it's just that the weight of the bike is more on the opposite side because it has less support on that side.
 

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Mine drinks oil like a kid sucking up a cola. My riding buddy says when I'm on the throttle hard it puffs a bit of smoke when I upshift.
It's got 8800 KM on it currently, The oil has been changed by my dealer once and I've added a bit more than a litre of oil to it over that 8800 km.
Am I concerned? Not really. Any high performance engine turning high rpm should burn oil.
 

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Seems like we're all over the map. Mine burns a quarter liter at 3k miles. Some go the full 9k miles and don't lose a drop.
 
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