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By the time I had taken it apart - it was only good for the bin...
Ah well! That's problem with some of these Ducati switches, they are put together in such a way that you end up breaking bits when trying to take them apart. I had a LH switch from a Multi 1200 that went the same way :(
At least if the bike is starting reliably now that's the main thing.
 
Andy,
Great to learn that was the issue! I would have felt really bad if didn't solve your problem after the expense and pain putting it in. Also, you offer good advise to anyone ever having experiencing this while under warranty! My "do nothing button" definitely increased in frequency over the month or 2 at the end of last season I dealt with it from the 1st time. From what Moto Union told me (Milwaukee dealer - good dudes) is that this is a known issue and it should be replaced. Catch it early if you experience that sick feeling of the do nothing starter switch!
 
Quick update on the switch I experienced getting the bike out of storage for the 1st time: the do nothing Switch issue was no longer intermittent, it was the norm. I couldn't get it to make contact at all with about a dozen tries. So I turned the key off, and flipped the switch back and forth from kill to start position many many times in hope to clean the contacts in the switch. (after seeing the construction of the switch that Andy dissected and uploaded for us to see. - Thanks Andy!) Rather desperate attempt at a fix, I know, but I was in need of a 1st spring ride bad. I turned the key and got a short contact, but not long enough to start. I then pulled it down into the start position again, but this time really pushed the switch inward toward the dash and I got a start! This inward pressure on the switch seems to help make the contact. Something that might be helpful for those yet to suffer this. My switch gets replace in a couple weeks, so I will be dealing with this for a while and will update anything else I find between now and then.
 
lately i also having this intermittent problem on starting up.I am not sure if it was also caused by a defective switch. Battery is brand new btw and it has this clicking sound when flipping the switch, thats why I thought it was a battery problem. I opened up the switch casing and spray some contact cleaner. Then it start up like nothing happens. Then the next day problem came back, then i try to pull the switch to the side just to try to make contact if that was the problem, and sometimes it works. attaching a link of the video.
 
@allandalid Although not a frequent problem, a starter switch failure has been reported on the Forum, as noted earlier on this thread. The good news, is it's not that expensive to replace, if confirmed to be the problem.
 
Spitballing here. My Guzzis have 6 relays, whenever I get a "startus interruptus" it's usually a sticky relay (fuel pump, starter, etc.) The click is a telltale sign. I usually just plug them back in and hope they have good contact. But have previously replaced them all with Omicron brand- it's still a crapshoot on these Guzzis.

The book says there are couple of relays, I have no idea where they are. I'd check the starter relay. Then the solenoid.

Again, not claiming to being helpful, just a hunch since you asked about it.
 
lately i also having this intermittent problem on starting up.I am not sure if it was also caused by a defective switch. Battery is brand new btw and it has this clicking sound when flipping the switch, thats why I thought it was a battery problem. I opened up the switch casing and spray some contact cleaner. Then it start up like nothing happens. Then the next day problem came back, then i try to pull the switch to the side just to try to make contact if that was the problem, and sometimes it works. attaching a link of the video.
Check your Battery Voltage in the menu if its reading 12.4 or under then your Battery does not have enough Crank amps to turn. I have just replaced my battery for a new one just last night as i had the same problem even after leaving it on the battery tender. next time it happens check the menu and then you can at least discount the battery.
 
Check your Battery Voltage in the menu if its reading 12.4 or under then your Battery does not have enough Crank amps to turn. I have just replaced my battery for a new one just last night as i had the same problem even after leaving it on the battery tender. next time it happens check the menu and then you can at least discount the battery.
Battery is brand new and checked it on the dash, and voltage reading is good. Saw some similar problem on web with only clicking sound when starting the ignition on, that it might be a loose contact or bad solenoid relay. Ill try open it up tomorrow and Lets see what happens. Ill post an update once done with the test.
 
Hello Fellow Ducatista. I think i isolated the problem as the starter relay or the solenoid relay. I cleaned up all contacts and open up the switch, check battery contacts and ground cables etc., to no avail. I also checked l the relay with the resistance meter if it connects during ignition on switch, so after the test i got no resistance. So on last sparkly test, i bypassed the solenoid connection using a screw driver, and viola! Engine turnsover 😁.
Please do this with utmost care, sparks near the battery and gasoline is dangerous.

 
ZAP!

Pesky relays. Those things are the the bane of Italian motorcycles.

The Guzzi guys upgrade with GEI or Omron relays and contact cleaner. Some of the Guzzi guys go so far as using Caig Deoxit electrical cleaner $$. I use the CRC cheap stuff. The relays aren't expensive and I've changed them out on both my Guzzis.

Next time I get the side fairing off the SS, I'm definitely going to upgrade the relays and clean the contacts as a preventative measure. Maddening.


Thanks for the diagnosis. Did you get the Mfg Part Number on the OEM relay?

"Pyro Dan" is the guy that knows relays. Replacement Relays
 
I made a welder using the car battery and a scooter solenoid/starter... I burned like these 2 of them - safety was on a leave heh - the sound was exactly the same. Damn, I wish I could connect the sounds and advise earlier, but wow, I'm glad we have you, this and a suggestion from LowRyter - it's not a disaster after all... you know, not ECU, not half the engine cut etc.
 
@allandalid ...And thank you for keeping us posted as you worked through the issue to successful conclusion!

Btw, what exhaust do you have on there?
 
Oh my. Not a generic relay at all. It's a complete module with the relay built in to it. So much for a fix it all the auto parts store. Not the most settling approach considering a long road trip.

Appreciate all the info here.

BTW- they're are two 30A fuses. Are they both live or is one a spare? Were the fuses blown?
 
Oh my. Not a generic relay at all. It's a complete module with the relay built in to it. So much for a fix it all the auto parts store. Not the most settling approach considering a long road trip.

Appreciate all the info here.

BTW- they're are two 30A fuses. Are they both live or is one a spare? Were the fuses blown?
Yes youre right, the other fuse is just a spare.
No, the fuse from the old relay is good, so I guess the problem is in the magnet or the mechanism inside the relay itself. It must have stuck maybe.
 
That fairing should have a little trap door on it, so that the battery and module can be serviced and jump started.

I hope someone takes a saw to the bugger and shows us how to make an access plate and do it like a professional did it.
 
It wouldn't be difficult to fit a heavy cable to the battery +ve terminal and mount an insulated terminal on the other end with a removable cover somewhere easily accessible. Remote Jump Start mountable Battery Terminals Kit
If you needed to jump start you could clamp the -ve lead to the engine and the +ve one to the terminal with the cover removed.
 
It wouldn't be difficult to fit a heavy cable to the battery +ve terminal and mount an insulated terminal on the other end with a removable cover somewhere easily accessible. Remote Jump Start mountable Battery Terminals Kit
If you needed to jump start you could clamp the -ve lead to the engine and the +ve one to the terminal with the cover removed.
I was thinking that just the hot terminal for a remote and the earth could be grounded on the frame or engine?

Others have expressed fears that jumping the battery night murder the computer. Others still have said it should be an easy bump start.

I know once that I killed my bike at mid start. Somehow it confused the computer to lean it out (I could smell it). Stupidly, I kept cranking the starter and then the starter began to slowwwww downnnn. And luckily it finally started. WHeeeeew.
 
I was thinking that just the hot terminal for a remote and the earth could be grounded on the frame or engine?

Others have expressed fears that jumping the battery night murder the computer. Others still have said it should be an easy bump start.

I know once that I killed my bike at mid start. Somehow it confused the computer to lean it out (I could smell it). Stupidly, I kept cranking the starter and then the starter began to slowwwww downnnn. And luckily it finally started. WHeeeeew.
Yes, just the one hot terminal is all you would need.
Jump starting won't harm the ECU as long as you don't do it from a car with it's engine running. The car alternator can create spikes that could fry the bike's ECU. I know a guy who blew both the ignition units on his carbed 900ss when trying to start with a jumper from his car that had the engine running. That was an expensive fix.
 
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