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What rev range do most use?

4K views 47 replies 15 participants last post by  M4rtin 
#1 ·
In this post here I shared a video from my channel, of riding my SSS, and @NothingClever couldn't ignore my tacho ;):ROFLMAO:.

And this began a chat about what rev range our bike should(?) be ridden in.

So I'm curious... what rev range do you choose for cruising around vs spirited twisty mountain roads vs track? And maybe whether you run a 14t or standard 15t front sprocket?
 
#2 ·
Throughout cities and towns I prattle along between 2500 and 3500 rpm. Normal riding I sit use 3000 and 5500, but shift up when I reached my desired speed and still am above 4000 rpm.
When I drive a bit faster, I usually stay in 4th or 5th gear as long as I don't drop below 4500ish in curves.
That is with the 15t sprocket. I haven't done that much riding with the 14t sprocket yet.
 
#5 ·
That's not far off what I do, but with the 14t that I have, the revs are easier to keep higher "prattling around"... I avoid going below 3000 and feel the bike is more responsive and stable above 4000, but twisties just like you because I don't have the skill to handle more power through corners yet.
 
#4 ·
It's a mandatory requirement for all true believers
Not on all rides, but on most longer rides I can't resist a good 3rd gear pull to 10k rpm.
But when I ride to work at 7 am, mostly through the city, still sleepy af, I think it's better to skip on that pull :ROFLMAO:
 
#7 ·
I'm similar to @Invincible.

On a club run, I tend to run higher in the rev range by being at least a gear lower than usual. The funny thing is I get better fuel consumption on a club run than I do normally. I guess that's because I'm usually at 6,000 RPM, where peak torque is developed, so the motor is running at its most efficient. At least that's the best I can come up with.
 
#11 ·
To me it’s all about balancing throttle response to the task at hand. If that task is commuting or city riding I don’t need the RPMs to be in the “power”, so to speak, but if I’m enjoying some twisties I require a certain responsiveness that is correlated to higher RPMs. This responsiveness could be seen as twitchy or too sensitive in the context of more relaxed riding. Once I get a feel for where a certain bike is in regards to RPMs/power I rarely notice the dash or look down, and shift by feel. As such, I’m a fan of short shifting my race R6 to keep it calm and smooth while wringing its neck during certain sections of track.
As an aside- years ago I took to heart Nick Ienatsch’s advice to practice emergency stopping from any speed you are willing to ride a motorcycle. This led to a practice of emergency stopping on every street ride. Making sure the coast was clear, then practicing emergency stops with the backup of (initially) ABS. I feel that this RPM conversation is related in that we should all find safe terrain to explore what these machines are capable in the aim of becoming more comfortable with them. In that sense, take the time to safely wring the neck of the SS, to learn more about where it makes power and how the throttle feels at various RPMs.
 
#14 ·
Interesting to see this come up in a general context. It’s the first thing that comes to my mind when people discuss going to the 14t front sprocket. I’m less concerned with top end speed than an even buzzier touring experience. When I’m out on the highway with the 15t on the flat, I can cruise at 65 and be loping along at a little over 4k rpm, in top gear. At around 5k, I’m sitting at 75. I find this range more comfortable than higher rpm’s for eating miles on the slab and with 80 percent of torque available at 3k, pulls from 4-5 are pretty good. If I feel like I need more, I’m not afraid to downshift.

I‘m curious to hear the touring rpm’s of those with the 14t. What are the ranges?

For in town cruising, I think more in terms of mph. 30 in 3rd, 40 in 4th, 50 in 5th and find that prevents lugging but keeps it quiet (relatively).

On my favorite twisties, I mostly set it and forget in 4th. I do occasionally get caught out with a lame duck sort of exit though. “Argghh should have down shifted“. Even then, it’s never really that bad with the torque distribution on the SS.
 
#18 ·
I‘m curious to hear the touring rpm’s of those with the 14t. What are the ranges?

For in town cruising, I think more in terms of mph. 30 in 3rd, 40 in 4th, 50 in 5th and find that prevents lugging but keeps it quiet (relatively).

On my favorite twisties, I mostly set it and forget in 4th.
Yep, I have the 14t. So, I'll go out and test the rpm at each gear that I select for riding around town, then highway, then spirited. This weekend I'm going on a short road trip with some friends and will get to experience all that.

For twisties in my part of the world, I NEVER use 4th gear. Always 2nd or 3rd because I think the mountain roads where I ride must be tighter than other parts of the world. They are often signposted at recommended 20 or 30 kph. However, on more open roads past the mountains (where the speed limit could be as high as a WHOPPPING 100kph 🙄 but we can sometimes get away with 120-130kph) the tighter sweepers can be 4th or 5th gear to bring the revs up.
 
#20 ·
@Oldrider you inspired me to post a short ride video on my SS... and even though you can't see the dash very often (obscured by my phone) once I'm into the twisties, I stay in 3rd gear (14t front sprocket) and the revs are definitely above 4000 rpm but would not be near 5000. The roads were wet and I'm a complete novice on wet roads so took it easy - holding no more than the speed limit (60kph) through almost all the turns was what felt safe to me. Normally through this same section of road I like 2nd gear and higher revs, above 5000, and a bit more speed. But honestly I don't look down much when I'm riding through the curves.

I am very keen to practice higher revs as @NothingClever has suggested to me recently, and will record that so I can see what the revs really are and how that felt riding.

Anyway, here's the video:

 
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#26 ·
So this weekend I'm on a roadtrip. Yesterday I ran the bike one gear lower than normal, everywhere... in town, through twisties, country backroads, highways. Never used 6th gear once. Kept the rpm between 4000 and 5000. So 3rd up to 70kph, 4th up to 90kph and 5th up to 120kph. Felt awesome. This is my new normal.

Then today I rode it a bit harder, another gear lower, like 3rd up to 80kph, 4th up to 100kph. Felt great too but likely just for more spirited riding.

And my fuel economy was THE BEST EVER... if I'd run the tank to theoretical empty the range would have been over 340km.
 
#27 ·
I think I generally keep revs above 6000 when riding spirited on my fav curvy roads. There is something to the notion that the bike becomes less disturbed when keeping the revs up. Supposedly gyroscopic forces from the engine increases and that helps the bike be more stable. Whatever the theory might be, I tried to purposefully to keep revs up when riding when I was out yesterday and I do feel like it did help with the biking being less sensitive to becoming unsettled.

That said, I was once told that a good technique to learning how to go fast is to try to run in really high gears. The idea being that whenever you make a mistake, you are "punished" twice when you cannot compensate for your error by whacking the throttle since the high gears will give you a slow response, and therefore, you will strive to ride as smooth as possible, find the ideal lines through curves and generally just plan your position on the road better. Suppose that is leading to an Alex Rins (motogp) kind of style in the end, as he is super smooth. Probably not a bad target for someone mainly riding on the street.
 
#33 · (Edited)
That said, I was once told that a good technique to learning how to go fast is to try to run in really high gears. The idea being that whenever you make a mistake, you are "punished" twice when you cannot compensate for your error by whacking the throttle since the high gears will give you a slow response, and therefore, you will strive to ride as smooth as possible, find the ideal lines through curves and generally just plan your position on the road better. Suppose that is leading to an Alex Rins (motogp) kind of style in the end, as he is super smooth. Probably not a bad target for someone mainly riding on the street.
Respectfully and without any intention to antagonize, I have to say this is a really bad technique. In fact, this technique will increase, not lessen, risk to the rider. This sounds like something an elderly BMW rider on an R60 would say at a rally.

There are two topics to unpack here - one is power management for safety and the other is cornering.

An unwound engine makes for a dangerous motorcycle. The motorcycle doesn't know whether it's on a straight street, a windy road or a race track. It just responds to your inputs. As an onboard engineer, you want to be in the motorcycle's power band because of the optimized responsiveness and stability as you wisely pointed out in your first paragraph. This is not about hanging off the bike and dragging a knee or doing a time trial on a public canyon road but about operating the motorcycle the way it was designed to be. More than once I've needed power to get ahead of deer, avoid a driver, get around an obstacle (fallen tree) before my decision space closed...the list goes on. Operating the motorcycle in too high of a gear gives away all engine braking, steals precious time with an emergency shift at the worst possible time and puts increased reliance on your braking to stop short of the problem when perhaps the better choice is to get clear of the problem. Running one's bike in too high a gear is negative training - it induces a bad habit and is not any kind of a useful drill or exercise.

The best way to select your trajectory is to get the eyes up. The next time you ride, try "warming up the eyes". Stand where you have a view of objects out to 300-500m. Now hold your thumb up at arm's length. Pick three objects at varying distances and laterally spread. Focus your eyes on your thumb, then jump your eyes to the first object, to the next object and to the last object and then back to your thumb. Do this with your left hand and then your right hand.

Now when you get on your bike, say out loud to yourself in your helmet "eyes up!" and then "scan back, scan back" followed by "eyes up!" and "scan back, scan back." This is called "jumping the eyes". When you say, "eyes up!" the object is to look as far forward as you can see. If you field of view is limited, slow your speed. Field of view opens up, your pace can pick up.

Another technique is, "Eyes to entry, eyes to apex and eyes to exit." Say this over and over out loud in your helmet as you run along your favorite twisty road. If you dork up a corner, say to yourself, "Next apex, (insert name)!"

Both of these techniques will greatly improve your trajectory through corners and help with early identification of hazards.

And let's not "whack" the throttle. Roll on? Yes, definitely. Let's focus on being smooth with those inputs. We never want to upset the chassis or surprise the tires.
 
#28 · (Edited)
After a little experience over the last couple days. The engine does not like to live under 4k. Seems really happy 5k and above. Averaged 52mpg of straight freeway in 5th or 6th depending on if I had to hold 70 or could go 80+
Weirdest bike I have owned taking off from a stop. Seems to like RPM and clutch feathering , managed to stall it off a stop sign once driving like it was one of my I4's - embarrassing;)
 
#29 ·
After a little experience over the last couple days. The engine does not like to live under 4k. Seems really happy 5k and above. Averaged 52mph of straight freeway in 5th or 6th depending on if I had to hold 70 or could go 80+
Weirdest bike I have owned taking off from a stop. Seems to like RPM and clutch feathering , managed to stall it off a stop sign once driving like it was one of my I4's - embarrassing;)
After I got the 14t front sprocket, take offs have been heaps better. The only time I've stalled it since is winter mornings and the first start when the clutch is cold. But that's a clutch issue, not engine or gearing.
 
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#35 ·
I like a lot of gear and compression braking. But when I'm cruising in town or gliding down a wide road, I don't mind to let it glide, so long as I don't lug it. That's prolly why I went to 14t sprocket to make make more rpms and compression braking.
 
#38 ·
I've only got a bit over 1300 miles on my '22 SSS but if anything, I feel it could stand an EXTRA tooth on the front (16) or one less tooth on the rear sprocket. I've considered doing that. Compared to my 848 the Triple S is geared a lot lower and I don't tend to stay in the lower gears very long. I like the long-legged feel of taller gearing . . .
 
#40 ·
I live in Mid-Missouri and we have a lot of good roads within 1-2 hours. Some with tight 25 MPH-marked curves, but more with open sweeping curves and long straights connecting them. So I don't need (or like) low gearing. The Triple S is fine as-is, gearing wise -- but I find myself riding one gear higher on most roads than I do on my 848.
 
#46 ·
For my other Ducatis (Monster 1200R & 959 Corse), I immediately put on a 14T front sprocket. For these bikes, the small sacrifice of a little top end speed paid dividends everywhere else in the powerband. Take offs were much easier, it seemed to always be in the sweet spot when cruising at any speed, and the increased torque is always welcome.

Having said that, I don't think I would consider a 14T on my 2021 Supersport 950S. When highway cruising at 75-80MPH, this bike gets just a tad buzzy for my liking, even with cushioned grips. A 14T would only exacerbate this condition.

Furthermore, it is my understanding than on 2021 MY and up Supersports, a 14T will cause the dash to throw some type of indicator light or error code.
YMMV.

Thanks
 
#47 ·
For my other Ducatis (Monster 1200R & 959 Corse), I immediately put on a 14T front sprocket. For these bikes, the small sacrifice of a little top end speed paid dividends everywhere else in the powerband. Take offs were much easier, it seemed to always be in the sweet spot when cruising at any speed, and the increased torque is always welcome.

Having said that, I don't think I would consider a 14T on my 2021 Supersport 950S. When highway cruising at 75-80MPH, this bike gets just a tad buzzy for my liking, even with cushioned grips. A 14T would only exacerbate this condition.

Furthermore, it is my understanding than on 2021 MY and up Supersports, a 14T will cause the dash to throw some type of indicator light or error code.
YMMV.

Thanks
Speeds you get to ride at make a big difference to preferred gearing IMHO. Here, there is no way we can get away with higher speeds like in the US, but even today cruising backroads at 120kph with a 14t felt smooth enough for me and it was still in 5th gear. Different buzz tolerance maybe?
 
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