Page 306 of the manual tells you exactly what you should should use down the the viscosity and the standard. What are you trying to achieve? You will never get any more power out of the bike by changing the oil, and the Supersport is too new for anyone to have had a major failure from using the wrong oil.I need to change my oil and would like to switch to Amsoil. My other bikes really like Amsoil or Motul. Has anyone tried these brands in the SS?
Is there REALLY a reason for you to be so condescending?:| It seems to be a common theme with the responses you give to people's inquiries. He was just asking, I'm sure in the end he'll do what's appropriate for his bike. Chill.Page 306 of the manual tells you exactly what you should should use down the the viscosity and the standard. What are you trying to achieve? You will never get any more power out of the bike by changing the oil, and the Supersport is too new for anyone to have had a major failure from using the wrong oil.
Did your other bikes tell you what oil they like?
You can get more power out of a bike by the choice of oil. The acceleration difference between a heavier grade mineral oil, and a lighter grade true fully synthetic (even if both are within the manufacturers specification) can be noticeable in a modest HP engine. No one is probably going to notice it in a 130+ hp engine on the road, but in bikes of modest power it can be quite noticeable.You will never get any more power out of the bike by changing the oil. Did your other bikes tell you what oil they like?
They aren't the ones paying for it.Most European dealers use Motul, Must say something I guess? It's certainly not the cheapest so they don't recommend and use it for a cost saving.
If you lose a couple of HP because of oil, then you're destroying the inside of your engine.You can get more power out of a bike by the choice of oil. The acceleration difference between a heavier grade mineral oil, and a lighter grade true fully synthetic (even if both are within the manufacturers specification) can be noticeable in a modest HP engine. No one is probably going to notice it in a 130+ hp engine on the road, but in bikes of modest power it can be quite noticeable.
I once put a heavier than usual grade into a bike I own after reconditioning the gear box as it had suffered some gear surface damage. Still withing manufacturers specification. It came back out after the very first decent ride, felt like the brakes were stuck on.
Manufactures who advertise improved engine power from true Ester/PAO based fully synthetic oil are not just running spin. It does reduce friction. Some older bike drive clutches and starter clutches will immediately become problematic if its used in them (this isn't an urban myth) proving friction is reduced. It may be only a couple HP difference from reduced friction, but it most certainly can be noticed in low to modest power engines.
????? No. You will not destroy your engine using a not true synthetic oil as recommended by Ducati. You will gain a couple HP by using a true Group 4 or 5 synthetic due to reduced friction (just like the marketing department promises).If you lose a couple of HP because of oil, then you're destroying the inside of your engine.
V or L engine do require a better oil so be careful. There is a lot more energy from a twin cylinder than an 4 cyl. Be careful which oil you choose, also remember its a wet clutch so some slipping could occur with the wrong oil even though it could be a better oil. Dont forget the valve rockers on the SS are not like the 4 cylinder overhead cams with some shims on the valves. Could easily cause them to fail with the wrong oil. My service techie poured in motul 7100 and although the neutral remains an issue I feel no problem with clutch slip or excessive clatter from the valves.I'm thinking I was going with Mobil 1. I used to be an Amsoil person exclusively, but I found that Mobil 1 was just as good...and made my Japanese bikes shift smoother. I will have the dealer do the 600 mile one, but after that, I'm open for suggestions. Not that Motul isn't ok, I just want options. Mobil 1 is a pretty good oil, afterall. I've been running that in my vehicles for 20 years with great results and in my bikes for the last 10 with equally great results.
Ok, but what makes the hp gain/loss hard to gauge is how each oil changes as heat increases. Some oils remain relatively thicker at some temps than other oils, and they all thin out at running temperature. That's why I take all manufacturer recommended oils with a grain of salt.????? No. You will not destroy your engine using a not true synthetic oil as recommended by Ducati. You will gain a couple HP by using a true Group 4 or 5 synthetic due to reduced friction (just like the marketing department promises).
The recommended oil in the owners handbook is Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50. I can see nothing relating to the product that says its a true synthetic (Ester/PAO), like Motul 7100 for example. If you want to stick in an oil that's not currently the best technology going just because Shell and Ducati have some commercial arrangement, go right ahead.
Me, I never buy oil in a bottle that's branded 'Motorcycle Oil". You're just getting totally ripped off. Don't even go to a motorcycle shop. Go to a car parts store and buy a true Group 4 and 5 blend synthetic (Ester/PAO) high performance oil in a suitable grade that is marked on the back of the pack as JASO MA2 complaint. It'll be exactly the same stuff that's stuck in the bottle marked "Motorcycle Oil", but the difference is it'll cost about half the price.
