Other than using the factory standard settings for preload, compression and rebound F/R as per the manual, or a custom set up measuring sag per rider weight, etc, does anyone have a table of recommended settings by rider weight?
Ed K
The sag setting seems a little theoretical yet its practical. @Rhino has highlighted something I had not considered and that is the riders positioning and not only the riders weight. My weight is near the factory settings of 80kgs and never bothered playing with the preload for sag measurement.
The past few days I have been in the twisties of the lowveld region. I have always thought the suspension is too hard for the road conditions where I live. So I started at the factory setting of 16 clicks on the compression fork and softened it 2 clicks per day of riding, 4 clicks felt reasonable with less of my eyes rattling in their sockets, today I will be testing 6 clicks plus the 16 clicks factory setting on the front compression fork. Front rebound remains untouched. On the rear I am at 4 clicks softer and will try hardening it with 1 click clockwise. The rear I felt was a little bouncy, so today I test 3 clicks plus the factory's 6 clicks on the rear.
My point is that the road conditions vary and finding the optimum comfort takes a little effort albeit it is quite simple to do.
The past few days I have been in the twisties of the lowveld region. I have always thought the suspension is too hard for the road conditions where I live. So I started at the factory setting of 16 clicks on the compression fork and softened it 2 clicks per day of riding, 4 clicks felt reasonable with less of my eyes rattling in their sockets, today I will be testing 6 clicks plus the 16 clicks factory setting on the front compression fork. Front rebound remains untouched. On the rear I am at 4 clicks softer and will try hardening it with 1 click clockwise. The rear I felt was a little bouncy, so today I test 3 clicks plus the factory's 6 clicks on the rear.
My point is that the road conditions vary and finding the optimum comfort takes a little effort albeit it is quite simple to do.
@amoslws and @Hugg727 your impressions sounds about right I am 20kg heavier with correct SAG settings and if I was 20kg lighter I would expect the feel to be harder at factory settings. I have videoed my suspension rebound and compression movement and compared it with the movement on my last bike with as near perfect setup and I have found both rebound and compression are a touch too slow. I have a spread sheet that I set up years ago that helps me keep track of changes rather than a note book. I keep a fresh print out on the bike and make my adjustment (and impressions of the adjustments) then transfer it to the spread sheet later. I will be adapting 2 settings that I can dial in on the Go 1 for normal riding and another for aggressive cornering. I will post my info with adjustments and results. (hope to have a short 20sec video of the suspension action per adjustment for visual confirmation of travel, speed etc). Hopefully it will help people see the difference (better or worse ) on going each way . I have heard but not confirmed that some people have been adjusting compression several clicks with no noticeable difference ?
Hi Guys!
Check out Dave Moss. Suspension GURU
He has a Youtube channel. One episode is entirely focused on the SSS.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYmOGL8b_-UeV7U10_48rqw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYmOGL8b_-UeV7U10_48rqw
SSS:
cost is nearly nothing.
Free trailer:
Duracell
Check out Dave Moss. Suspension GURU
He has a Youtube channel. One episode is entirely focused on the SSS.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYmOGL8b_-UeV7U10_48rqw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYmOGL8b_-UeV7U10_48rqw
SSS:
Free trailer:
Duracell
Same video twice..nice video, though. Would love to spend a few minutes with this guy and have him set up mine, then go for a ride with him, then talk for a bit over a pint!! Cheers, mate.
I am away to the big smoke this weekend so I will start my process the weekend after this @John is (mainly, Mostly, Technical, any of these words) correct in his summery and process of rebound and compression set up even to the point of me recognising sentences and paragraphs which are regularly used by experts in various articles I have read over the years. I highly recommend everyone reads articles and watches YouTube videos just to familiarise themselves on how and why there suspension acts like it does . then adapt the most simplest way it works for you. Once you have something that works for you, start discussing it with others who are open to sharing their knowledge ( Note !!I did not Call this Advise )and that's when you start to gain the extra knowledge relevant to you and your bike. I have a simple system which gets me going quick and helps me reach my riding capability's. I hope to extend that further this year into being able to control High & low Speed compression.
I can't speak much to the height problem you guys speak of as I'm only 5'8", but I can say that Powerbronze makes a really excellent product. I had one on my Ninja 1000 for about 6 years and it looked as good as the day I got it.
When you reach the zero or maximum points it feels a little springy. On mine I could certainly feel a recoil. If I am you I would turn it back clockwise to maximum compression and then 16 clicks anti clockwise to the factory setting. It requires very little force for a click. It's a case of delicate fingers and good ears.
Ok I have gone through (painstakingly) most of the rebound and compression settings (clicks) both front and rear and filmed the travel on each setting (it has turned out to be overkill but I have reference to go back to if I need to) my aim was to be able to have 3 settings 1 Touring (softer ride with luggage) 2 Sports Touring (probably used 90% of the time day to day and easy twisties) and 3 Sport / Race (Harder and stiffer for good true road surfaces)
I now have 3 settings to play with and fine tune
Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?
I now have 3 settings to play with and fine tune
Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?
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Thank you for taking the time to summarize and post!
Btw, "Standard" means factory setting, is that correct?
Also, are you about the "average" weight, 170 lbs(?).
Btw, "Standard" means factory setting, is that correct?
Also, are you about the "average" weight, 170 lbs(?).
Important note : Your suspension has an ideal length / area of travel this is where you will get the best comfort out of your ride and you want your suspension to work in that area and not above or below it. When you are making your adjustments you are speeding up or slowing down your Rebound and Suppression (how quick it dips and how quick it springs back) A bad setup may feel good on a nice flat surface. (E.g. if you hit ten bumps in quick succession you would want your suspension to dip and spring back into the ideal travel area. if your rebound was too slow and your compression was too quick then at each bump your travel area would get less and less eventually bottoming out) This is the reason I video my suspension travel. A slower compression and rebound gives you a softer feel to your ride ideal for touring if you hit a bumpy patch you just slow down and let your suspension catch up with your speed. :grin2:
I have spent the last 2 days trieling my Touring setup and these are my thoughts. Smooth and floaty on straight good roads once the road gets rough she gets a little jumpy but the bumps are soft.when taking bends the bike feels heavier and a little dosile the front end seems to delay and keep a little compressed, but still very smooth. overall impression would be ( I don't think I would use this setting in its current form, it would need some tweaking. I have now set my suspension up for sport Touring and expect this setting to suite me better, I will give this a 2 day trial and then move onto the Sport/Race setting which I'm most interested in.
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Interestingly you have made your rear quite soft. My rear is 10 clicks softer from hardest. My front is 22 clicks from hardest - all in respect of compression, I have left the rebound at factory settings.
Remember guys all settings will be depending on your weight , are we all mentioning our weights with settings to give others an idea
WTF !!!!!!! now I'm not sure of the starting point (0 clicks) on the rear rebound . Can I have anyone's Thoughts is o clicks all the way back down towards H or all the way Up towards S I have been using 0 as all the way up towards S and my clicks start down. please help.
I haven’t watched the videos yet, so I may be repeating this. However, I don’t recall any mention of Spring Preload yet in this thread, and in my experience that should be the starting point.
Chasing the damping w/o first setting the static sag is not going to solve handling issues and ride quality. It’s like ‘tuning’ around an electrical problem. So I decided to take a few minutes to see where my bike was set.
I discovered that my front spring preload adjusters were set fully relaxed (counter clockwise) by either the factory or the dealer. Now, you might expect this to give a plush ride, but in fact the front end has been extremely harsh, almost rigid, with factory damping settings. Hmm, this points to possibly a loose rear end setting too, as it seems unlikely that Ducati slipped a set of heavy springs into my bike.
So, I’m waiting for my lovely assistant to help with sag measurements. If anyone has done this how about sharing your findings.
Chasing the damping w/o first setting the static sag is not going to solve handling issues and ride quality. It’s like ‘tuning’ around an electrical problem. So I decided to take a few minutes to see where my bike was set.
I discovered that my front spring preload adjusters were set fully relaxed (counter clockwise) by either the factory or the dealer. Now, you might expect this to give a plush ride, but in fact the front end has been extremely harsh, almost rigid, with factory damping settings. Hmm, this points to possibly a loose rear end setting too, as it seems unlikely that Ducati slipped a set of heavy springs into my bike.
So, I’m waiting for my lovely assistant to help with sag measurements. If anyone has done this how about sharing your findings.
I have tried to simplify a confusing rear ohlins on the S for the guys here. It seems the rear is more complicated than the front forks
Okay, so on the REAR, turning the dial / knob at the top of the spring adjusts the REBOUND. Maximum softness is all the way clockwise, to harden the rear rebound and thus shorten the spring, turn anti clockwise for harder rebound. Factory setting is 14 clicks from hardest rebound in other words 14 clicks clockwise. Harder means a faster push down on the swing arm.
REAR COMPRESSION dial / knob is at the bottom on the mudguard, factory setting is 12 clicks from hardest, in other words turned 12 clicks anti clockwise for a softer compression. Harder compression means less travel on the swingarm.
So on the REAR suspension, rebound dial softer (slower) is clockwise and the compression dial softer (slower) is anti clockwise. Opposites attract.
Okay, so on the REAR, turning the dial / knob at the top of the spring adjusts the REBOUND. Maximum softness is all the way clockwise, to harden the rear rebound and thus shorten the spring, turn anti clockwise for harder rebound. Factory setting is 14 clicks from hardest rebound in other words 14 clicks clockwise. Harder means a faster push down on the swing arm.
REAR COMPRESSION dial / knob is at the bottom on the mudguard, factory setting is 12 clicks from hardest, in other words turned 12 clicks anti clockwise for a softer compression. Harder compression means less travel on the swingarm.
So on the REAR suspension, rebound dial softer (slower) is clockwise and the compression dial softer (slower) is anti clockwise. Opposites attract.
O.K. I realize that Sag was referred to in the first few posts, but not actually addressed.
The spring rate (fixed) and preload (adjustable) determines the bike's chassis geometry when riding as well as suspension compliance, and has a huge impact on handling and comfort. Moving the Compression/Rebound Damping adjusters does not directly affect the length of the spring or the force of the spring (softness), but only determines the speed of spring action for any given situation.
The bike must assume and maintain the proper stance while riding. That is the job of the springs, fine tuned by the Preload adjusters, and then further controlled by the hydraulic dampers. We need to start there. For example, if you wanted to adjust for 120 lbs of passenger or cargo on the back to maintain anything like crisp handling you wouldn't do it with damping, but by tediously moving the ring nuts on the rear shock. You're resetting Sag.
Presumably the factory spring rates and preload settings will be acceptable for the 'standard' rider on the street. Heavier riders will need more preload to achieve ideal Sag settings, smaller riders less. At extremes of size and for racing a different spring rate is usually needed to keep the suspension working fluidly, as preload can only work so far before it binds the spring.
Much more to explore on this topic, but that's a start. I still need to measure my bike!
Let's see if that works better.
I watched the Dave Moss Supersport video, and his idea of sag is different than everyone else's. All the pro's recommend setting static sag as in this video, but he talks about setting the sag dynamically instead - use a zip-tie on the lower fork tube to check fork load at the heaviest compression, and adjust from there - he completely disregards static sag, at least in that video.
I thought that's how we understood it in here. My problem is I don't have a 2nd set of hands to help but placing a cable tie around the shiny bits will help to measure the dynamic sag which is essentially what we need. We need the static sag because the difference between static and dynamic should be 30-40mm.
Ok back on track was all correct but was counting backwards re rear rebound. Thanks all . So I'm on my trial Sport Touring setting and it's working out good so far. I am confident that I will have 3 settings finalised in about a week and be able to dial in a few any setting in a minute. John is probably right though and I suspect that the final numberswill only be a few clicks between them.
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while you techno desk jockeys are rambling on about jam jars and wrist twisting I've been twisting the throttle and just had the smoothest most awesome ride yet on my Supersport to date.> I know my ride to and from work well have done it umpteen times so I am so pleased to be at the fine tuning stage of my touring and sport touring settings. I am not worried about getting the sport setting right as it should be the easy once I have settled on my final numbers
I know my ride to and from work well have done it umpteen times so I am so pleased to be at the fine tuning stage of my touring and sport touring settings. I am not worried about getting the sport setting right as it should be the easy once I have settled on my final numbers
Motza Suspention Dialed in
Yeah !!! I can now walk to the garage get on my bike and know that the suspension setting is near **** perfect :grin2:. Until now I knew that I was just riding a great bike with a great suspension system and if I hadn't ridden the BMW with the dynamic suspension at the same time I test rode the supersport , I may not have set my bar that high. the two bikes were chalk and cheese with the BMW being the Mozzarella. Long story short I was always buying the Ducati and didn't see why I couldn't get the Motza out of the Ohlins. I defiantly went the long way round but here it is...
I am 98 kg my gear (jacket helmet boots) is about 8kg my tank bag is holding about 2kg total 108kg
Rear Compression 16 clicks Rear Rebound 18 clicks Front compression 16 Front Rebound 8 clicks.
On the weekend I will go to my little track and spend an hour or so working on my sport setting. I predict the settings will be (12 14 14 5 )or close to that but we will see after testing. Thanks all for you help I highly recommend tuning your suspension you payed for it and its a shame not to be getting the benefit.
Yeah !!! I can now walk to the garage get on my bike and know that the suspension setting is near **** perfect :grin2:. Until now I knew that I was just riding a great bike with a great suspension system and if I hadn't ridden the BMW with the dynamic suspension at the same time I test rode the supersport , I may not have set my bar that high. the two bikes were chalk and cheese with the BMW being the Mozzarella. Long story short I was always buying the Ducati and didn't see why I couldn't get the Motza out of the Ohlins. I defiantly went the long way round but here it is...
I am 98 kg my gear (jacket helmet boots) is about 8kg my tank bag is holding about 2kg total 108kg
Rear Compression 16 clicks Rear Rebound 18 clicks Front compression 16 Front Rebound 8 clicks.
On the weekend I will go to my little track and spend an hour or so working on my sport setting. I predict the settings will be (12 14 14 5 )or close to that but we will see after testing. Thanks all for you help I highly recommend tuning your suspension you payed for it and its a shame not to be getting the benefit.
The fork Ohlïns contains springs of 0,8 kilos of hardness and the rear shock absorber Ohlïns, a spring of 10,5 kilos. The Ohlïns France service technician with whom I spoke, advise, in report to my weight, included equipment, to replace the springs of fork by springs in 0,75 kilos (ref. 8790-75-159 € the pair, here in France). I would have a bigger amplitude of regulation of prestressed.
For information, the foruche Ohlïns is a FGRT48 and the amorisseur is a S46PR1C1.
For information, the foruche Ohlïns is a FGRT48 and the amorisseur is a S46PR1C1.
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