[Hugg727]

On ohlins, the left fork is compression, the factory settings are 16 clicks, best to do it in a quiet room because they are hard to hear and feel using an allen key. My final setting is four clicks anti clockwise on the rear wheel, I played at 2, 3 and 4 clicks and ended up with 4 plus the factory setting of 6 - 10 clicks anti clockwise. Final setting on the front is 6 clicks plus the factory setting of 16 (tested it by dialing back to zero) - 22 clicks from zero. Front fork has total of 28 clicks from maximum to zero compression on the dial. Turn anti clockwise to soften the compression.

Not sure you recall but i moaned about my eye balls rattling in the sockets from 200km/hr, with the new setting it has reduced it, it's still there but not as bad. Hey I can see the road again.

I was just messing with the front. When I click the compression/left adjuster it gives me a total of more than what the manual list. I can get a total of 35 clicks in the front. WHat am i doing wrong? The last few are tight but am I going past zero?

 

[John]

I was just messing with the front. When I click the compression/left adjuster it gives me a total of more than what the manual list. I can get a total of 35 clicks in the front. WHat am i doing wrong? The last few are tight but am I going past zero?

Just a general comment, not based on first hand experience with the SS Ohlins components ......

Clickers should never be done up 'tight'. To find the 'zero' position just wind in till you feel them very lightly seat. What you're screwing in is basically a tapered needle that fits into a matching seat. Not unlike a fuel mixture screw for those old enough to remember what a carburetor is/was. Screwing the tapered needle in closes up the bypass hole size, screwing it out increases the bypass hole size. With a bit of force you can easily get the tapered needle to drive into the seat, causing damage to both the taper of the needle and seat.

Just screw the clicker in till you feel it lightly seat, do not go past that point. That is your zero position. Some people call the first actual 'click' back the zero position, I call it "1" but this is all totally irrelevant as its finding the correct adjustment that matters, not your counting methodology.

 

[amoslws]

When you reach the zero or maximum points it feels a little springy. On mine I could certainly feel a recoil. If I am you I would turn it back clockwise to maximum compression and then 16 clicks anti clockwise to the factory setting. It requires very little force for a click. It's a case of delicate fingers and good ears.

 

[Hugg727]

@John, @amoslws

Thank you both for the advice. It ceratinly makes better sense to me now. I will try this and report back.

 

[amoslws]

@John, @amoslws

Thank you both for the advice. It ceratinly makes better sense to me now. I will try this and report back.

All for a safer ride.. enjoy it.

 

[amoslws]

@amoslws and @Hugg727 your impressions sounds about right I am 20kg heavier with correct SAG settings and if I was 20kg lighter I would expect the feel to be harder at factory settings. I have videoed my suspension rebound and compression movement and compared it with the movement on my last bike with as near perfect setup and I have found both rebound and compression are a touch too slow. I have a spread sheet that I set up years ago that helps me keep track of changes rather than a note book. I keep a fresh print out on the bike and make my adjustment (and impressions of the adjustments) then transfer it to the spread sheet later. I will be adapting 2 settings that I can dial in on the Go 1 for normal riding and another for aggressive cornering. I will post my info with adjustments and results. (hope to have a short 20sec video of the suspension action per adjustment for visual confirmation of travel, speed etc). Hopefully it will help people see the difference (better or worse ) on going each way . I have heard but not confirmed that some people have been adjusting compression several clicks with no noticeable difference ?

Enjoy the big smoke. That might mean something else here and other parts of the world. Waiting for you to get through it and sort out your suspension so we can see your video.

 

[Rhino]

Ok I have gone through (painstakingly) most of the rebound and compression settings (clicks) both front and rear and filmed the travel on each setting (it has turned out to be overkill but I have reference to go back to if I need to) my aim was to be able to have 3 settings 1 Touring (softer ride with luggage) 2 Sports Touring (probably used 90% of the time day to day and easy twisties) and 3 Sport / Race (Harder and stiffer for good true road surfaces)
I now have 3 settings to play with and fine tune
Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?

 

[se7en]

Ok I have gone through (painstakingly) most of the rebound and compression settings (clicks) both front and rear and filmed the travel on each setting (it has turned out to be overkill but I have reference to go back to if I need to) my aim was to be able to have 3 settings 1 Touring (softer ride with luggage) 2 Sports Touring (probably used 90% of the time day to day and easy twisties) and 3 Sport / Race (Harder and stiffer for good true road surfaces)
I now have 3 settings to play with and fine tune
Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?

Nice work, man. Thanks for the info. It's making me want to go out and experiment, too.

 

[amoslws]

Ok I have gone through (painstakingly) most of the rebound and compression settings (clicks) both front and rear and filmed the travel on each setting (it has turned out to be overkill but I have reference to go back to if I need to) my aim was to be able to have 3 settings 1 Touring (softer ride with luggage) 2 Sports Touring (probably used 90% of the time day to day and easy twisties) and 3 Sport / Race (Harder and stiffer for good true road surfaces)
I now have 3 settings to play with and fine tune
Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?

Must have some pretty smooth tar where you are.

 

[Rhino]

Must have some pretty smooth tar where you are.

No the tar is **** around here. But I do have a spot about 2.5 hours away that is quite good. Always looking for a good patch of Tar:grin2:

 

[Ed K]

Thank you for taking the time to summarize and post!

Btw, "Standard" means factory setting, is that correct?

Also, are you about the "average" weight, 170 lbs(?).

 

[Rhino]

Thank you for taking the time to summarize and post!

Btw, "Standard" means factory setting, is that correct?

Also, are you about the "average" weight, 170 lbs(?).

yes Standard means factory setting and my weight 98 kg (216lbs) which is standard for us 6ft 3" guys I suppose. The settings I have listed are a starting point for me to fine tune, I am only expecting to have to adjust by a couple of clicks per setting (ie touring, race , sport touring). These settings won't be compatible for your weight but hopefully the info will help you adapt a system to start to experiment and develop your own. ( it would be good though if someone had done all the hard yards for each weight increment)

 

[Hugg727]

Ok I have gone through (painstakingly) most of the rebound and compression settings (clicks) both front and rear and filmed the travel on each setting (it has turned out to be overkill but I have reference to go back to if I need to) my aim was to be able to have 3 settings 1 Touring (softer ride with luggage) 2 Sports Touring (probably used 90% of the time day to day and easy twisties) and 3 Sport / Race (Harder and stiffer for good true road surfaces)
I now have 3 settings to play with and fine tune
Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?

Thank you for posting this. I did the same basic softening settings that amoslws did and I liked it better....softer/plush. This data verifies that and gives me an idea of where I need to be if I ever want to go to the track.

Again, great job!!

 

[Rhino]

Important note : Your suspension has an ideal length / area of travel this is where you will get the best comfort out of your ride and you want your suspension to work in that area and not above or below it. When you are making your adjustments you are speeding up or slowing down your Rebound and Suppression (how quick it dips and how quick it springs back) A bad setup may feel good on a nice flat surface. (E.g. if you hit ten bumps in quick succession you would want your suspension to dip and spring back into the ideal travel area. if your rebound was too slow and your compression was too quick then at each bump your travel area would get less and less eventually bottoming out) This is the reason I video my suspension travel. A slower compression and rebound gives you a softer feel to your ride ideal for touring if you hit a bumpy patch you just slow down and let your suspension catch up with your speed. :grin2:

 

[John]

Quick Note: rear compression turns clockwise to stiffen and rear rebound turns anticlockwise to stiffen? Go figure?

As it so unusual to unscrew a rebound adjuster to 'stiffen' (increase/slow rebound damping) I had to check. To do that it would have to have a left-hand thread which would be very unusual.

I believe you may find its's a misprint in the owners manual (page 243). Look at Figure 163 on the very same page. It shows "H" by screwing the rebound adjuster in a clockwise direction, and "S" by screwing it in a counter-clockwise direction. If "H" and "S" mean 'hard' and 'soft' this contradicts the written description. As it is normal convention on a shock absorber to increase damping by screwing in an adjuster (both compression and rebound) making it 'harder' (it really increases damping making it slower). I believe Fig. 163 is correct, and the conflicting description on page 243 is wrong. Probably a language translation error.

P.S. The front suspension is described in the manual as you'd expect. Screw in to increase/slow both compression and rebound damping (making for a firmer ride), unscrew for the opposite.

 

[Rhino]

As it so unusual to unscrew a rebound adjuster to 'stiffen' (increase/slow rebound damping) I had to check. To do that it would have to have a left-hand thread which would be very unusual.

I believe you may find its's a misprint in the owners manual (page 243). Look at Figure 163 on the very same page. It shows "H" by screwing the rebound adjuster in a clockwise direction, and "S" by screwing it in a counter-clockwise direction. If "H" and "S" mean 'hard' and 'soft' this contradicts the written description. As it is normal convention on a shock absorber to increase damping by screwing in an adjuster (both compression and rebound) making it 'harder' (it really increases damping making it slower). I believe Fig. 163 is correct, and the conflicting description on page 243 is wrong. Probably a language translation error.

P.S. The front suspension is described in the manual as you'd expect. Screw in to increase/slow both compression and rebound damping (making for a firmer ride), unscrew for the opposite.

Yes @John you are correct when I read it I was times scratching my head but as I see it the rear Knob 1 (compression) is screwed in clockwise eg tightening or it closing. knob 3 (Rebound) is screwed in from the other end and is also turned clockwise to tighten or close. When you look at it from the side of the bike knob 1 is turned clockwise and knob 3 is turned anticlockwise. in the direction of H which is down. What do you think....yes ( I think they could have tried to explain it better) Following Fig 154 is correct. By the way my page no is 228 yours is 243 and my figure is 154 and yours is 163. 163 in my manual is of the ignition. :nerd:

 

[amoslws]

Yes @John you are correct when I read it I was times scratching my head but as I see it the rear Knob 1 (compression) is screwed in clockwise eg tightening or it closing. knob 3 (Rebound) is screwed in from the other end and is also turned clockwise to tighten or close. When you look at it from the side of the bike knob 1 is turned clockwise and knob 3 is turned anticlockwise. in the direction of H which is down. What do you think....yes ( I think they could have tried to explain it better) Following Fig 154 is correct. By the way my page no is 228 yours is 243 and my figure is 154 and yours is 163. 163 in my manual is of the ignition. :nerd:

^^^^^100% correct^^^^^ regarding settings.
They must have shortened the manual for the Aussies knowing they read slower....hahaha, bit like their rugby of late where they battle to read the opposition. Champions cup has started, we meet soon.

 

[LiamC]

bit like their rugby of late where they battle to read the opposition. Champions cup has started, we meet soon.

OOhhh!, Ouch! Ooohhh!. Nah, I got nothing. That was a woeful game by us...:crying::crying:

 

[Rhino]

^^^^^100% correct^^^^^ regarding settings.
They must have shortened the manual for the Aussies knowing they read slower....hahaha, bit like their rugby of late where they battle to read the opposition. Champions cup has started, we meet soon.

Mate I'm a springbok till I die and that's not always a good thing I was at a game when the Wallabies beat us 48 to 0 oh that was not a good day. I enjoyed this game though. I think both the Boks and Wallabies are in a little trouble this year we are falling behind and the gap is wide. Shame about the politics that ruins our wonderful game.:crying:

 

[LiamC]

I have never seen a club/franchise win when there is internal politicking going on. The more unrest, the worse the team performs. You'd expect the players to be isolated from it all, but they aren't. I'd guess that there is a lot of crap going on that we aren't privy to.