Other than using the factory standard settings for preload, compression and rebound F/R as per the manual, or a custom set up measuring sag per rider weight, etc, does anyone have a table of recommended settings by rider weight?
Ohlins Suspension Settings
Ed K
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https://youtu.be/ZtzTyCKh5fY
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I have tried to simplify a confusing rear ohlins on the S for the guys here. It seems the rear is more complicated than the front forks
Okay, so on the REAR, turning the dial / knob at the top of the spring adjusts the REBOUND. Maximum softness is all the way clockwise, to harden the rear rebound and thus shorten the spring, turn anti clockwise for harder rebound. Factory setting is 14 clicks from hardest rebound in other words 14 clicks clockwise. Harder means a faster push down on the swing arm.
REAR COMPRESSION dial / knob is at the bottom on the mudguard, factory setting is 12 clicks from hardest, in other words turned 12 clicks anti clockwise for a softer compression. Harder compression means less travel on the swingarm.
So on the REAR suspension, rebound dial softer (slower) is clockwise and the compression dial softer (slower) is anti clockwise. Opposites attract.
Okay, so on the REAR, turning the dial / knob at the top of the spring adjusts the REBOUND. Maximum softness is all the way clockwise, to harden the rear rebound and thus shorten the spring, turn anti clockwise for harder rebound. Factory setting is 14 clicks from hardest rebound in other words 14 clicks clockwise. Harder means a faster push down on the swing arm.
REAR COMPRESSION dial / knob is at the bottom on the mudguard, factory setting is 12 clicks from hardest, in other words turned 12 clicks anti clockwise for a softer compression. Harder compression means less travel on the swingarm.
So on the REAR suspension, rebound dial softer (slower) is clockwise and the compression dial softer (slower) is anti clockwise. Opposites attract.
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Let's see if that works better.
I watched the Dave Moss Supersport video, and his idea of sag is different than everyone else's. All the pro's recommend setting static sag as in this video, but he talks about setting the sag dynamically instead - use a zip-tie on the lower fork tube to check fork load at the heaviest compression, and adjust from there - he completely disregards static sag, at least in that video.
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I thought that's how we understood it in here. My problem is I don't have a 2nd set of hands to help but placing a cable tie around the shiny bits will help to measure the dynamic sag which is essentially what we need. We need the static sag because the difference between static and dynamic should be 30-40mm.
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O.K. I realize that Sag was referred to in the first few posts, but not actually addressed.
The spring rate (fixed) and preload (adjustable) determines the bike's chassis geometry when riding as well as suspension compliance, and has a huge impact on handling and comfort. Moving the Compression/Rebound Damping adjusters does not directly affect the length of the spring or the force of the spring (softness), but only determines the speed of spring action for any given situation.
The bike must assume and maintain the proper stance while riding. That is the job of the springs, fine tuned by the Preload adjusters, and then further controlled by the hydraulic dampers. We need to start there. For example, if you wanted to adjust for 120 lbs of passenger or cargo on the back to maintain anything like crisp handling you wouldn't do it with damping, but by tediously moving the ring nuts on the rear shock. You're resetting Sag.
Presumably the factory spring rates and preload settings will be acceptable for the 'standard' rider on the street. Heavier riders will need more preload to achieve ideal Sag settings, smaller riders less. At extremes of size and for racing a different spring rate is usually needed to keep the suspension working fluidly, as preload can only work so far before it binds the spring.
Much more to explore on this topic, but that's a start. I still need to measure my bike!
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Aw shucks. I hadn't seen this before I posted.
Yep, this is what we want. Thanks Psyopper.
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Different. He's completely ignoring changing the spring pre-load at all except to control dive depth.
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Set my Sag and reset my SAG way back at the start in fact I posted that this is the 1st bike I have set SAG not Level but with the rear slightly higher (mainly for levelling the bike on acceleration out of corners and not for the early dip into corners) I am very happy with my SAG.:smile2:
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Ok back on track was all correct but was counting backwards re rear rebound. Thanks all . So I'm on my trial Sport Touring setting and it's working out good so far. I am confident that I will have 3 settings finalised in about a week and be able to dial in a few any setting in a minute. John is probably right though and I suspect that the final numberswill only be a few clicks between them.
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I can see how easy it would be to count backwards on the rear dampers. I had to actually turn each damper individually to each extreme to satisfy myself that I knew what direction was 'In' & 'clockwise '.
Keep up the good work.
I reckon the simplest way to remember is just screw the adjusters IN to Harden, screw them OUT to Soften. They are all right-hand threads (the way a jar lid goes on for those of a non engineering background) so it really doesn't matter which way your facing. Just screw then IN or OUT, all work the same. Screwing them all the way in gives the zero position from which each 'click' undone is the count.
The video is a very good explanation of the way to set sag...... BUT for a few exceptions. And that is some sport-bikes bikes with long top out springs. So that's possibly why Dave Moss has just used a zip tie. If a motorcycle has long top out springs in the front forks the traditional method doesn't work. So that would be the first thing I'd want to clarify, especially with the Ohlins suspension.
If it doesn't have long top out springs a zip tie to just find if the forks are bottoming out is not the method to set sag. If sag is set correctly (using the method in the video) and the bike is bottoming out under hard braking, it indicates underweight springs (cranking up compression damping to compensate is a lousy fudge for a road bike, as you'll end up with a crap ride on rough roads). If the springs are in the ballpark, and sag correctly set, adjusting the fork oil height is how you prevent bottoming out.
The height of oil in the forks is a tuning variable affecting the last 1/3 of front suspension travel. It is meant to be adjusted to control the stroke end. But a factory manual won't tell you that. It will just say the oil height is X mm, which is just a generic one size fits all setting for a factory to use.
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Keeping it simple. :grin2:
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6 and 2 Three's.
Bit to cryptic for me???? Remember I'm just an Oztraileon who need a simplified owners manual :laugh:
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while you techno desk jockeys are rambling on about jam jars and wrist twisting I've been twisting the throttle and just had the smoothest most awesome ride yet on my Supersport to date.> I know my ride to and from work well have done it umpteen times so I am so pleased to be at the fine tuning stage of my touring and sport touring settings. I am not worried about getting the sport setting right as it should be the easy once I have settled on my final numbers
I know my ride to and from work well have done it umpteen times so I am so pleased to be at the fine tuning stage of my touring and sport touring settings. I am not worried about getting the sport setting right as it should be the easy once I have settled on my final numbers
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Motza Suspention Dialed in
Yeah !!! I can now walk to the garage get on my bike and know that the suspension setting is near **** perfect :grin2:. Until now I knew that I was just riding a great bike with a great suspension system and if I hadn't ridden the BMW with the dynamic suspension at the same time I test rode the supersport , I may not have set my bar that high. the two bikes were chalk and cheese with the BMW being the Mozzarella. Long story short I was always buying the Ducati and didn't see why I couldn't get the Motza out of the Ohlins. I defiantly went the long way round but here it is...
I am 98 kg my gear (jacket helmet boots) is about 8kg my tank bag is holding about 2kg total 108kg
Rear Compression 16 clicks Rear Rebound 18 clicks Front compression 16 Front Rebound 8 clicks.
On the weekend I will go to my little track and spend an hour or so working on my sport setting. I predict the settings will be (12 14 14 5 )or close to that but we will see after testing. Thanks all for you help I highly recommend tuning your suspension you payed for it and its a shame not to be getting the benefit.
Yeah !!! I can now walk to the garage get on my bike and know that the suspension setting is near **** perfect :grin2:. Until now I knew that I was just riding a great bike with a great suspension system and if I hadn't ridden the BMW with the dynamic suspension at the same time I test rode the supersport , I may not have set my bar that high. the two bikes were chalk and cheese with the BMW being the Mozzarella. Long story short I was always buying the Ducati and didn't see why I couldn't get the Motza out of the Ohlins. I defiantly went the long way round but here it is...
I am 98 kg my gear (jacket helmet boots) is about 8kg my tank bag is holding about 2kg total 108kg
Rear Compression 16 clicks Rear Rebound 18 clicks Front compression 16 Front Rebound 8 clicks.
On the weekend I will go to my little track and spend an hour or so working on my sport setting. I predict the settings will be (12 14 14 5 )or close to that but we will see after testing. Thanks all for you help I highly recommend tuning your suspension you payed for it and its a shame not to be getting the benefit.
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Great work!!!
So if someone was lighter than you , say......175lb/80kg, would you need less dampening and rebound?
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